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How to make béchamel sauce
by
Frank Fariello
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%20quite%20easy%20to%20make.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFor%20most%20Italian%20dishes,%20where%20the%20sauce%20will%20be%20layered%20into%20a%20pasta%20dish%20that%20will%20later%20be%20baked,%20you%20want%20to%20make%20a%20rather%20loose%20b%C3%A9chamel%20sauce%20as%20follows:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIngredients%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDirections%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EStep%201:%20Melt%20a%20stick%20of%20butter%20(100g,%204%20oz.)%20in%20a%20saucepan,%20then%20add%20six%20spoonfuls%20(50g,%202%20oz.)%20of%20flour%20and%20simmer%20the%20resulting%20roux%20over%20medium%20low%20heat%20for%20a%20few%20minutes,%20taking%20care%20not%20to%20allow%20the%20roux%20to%20darken,%20and%20remove%20from%20the%20heat.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EStep%202:%20In%20a%20separate%20saucepan,%20bring%20a%20liter%20(one%20quart)%20of%20milk%20just%20barely%20to%20a%20boil.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EStep%203:%20Immediately%20pour%20the%20milk%20into%20the%20pan%20with%20the%20roux.%20Taking%20a%20whisk,%20whip%20the%20roux%20and%20milk%20together%20vigorously,%20then%20put%20the%20saucepan%20back%20on%20the%20heat%20and%20bring%20it%20up%20to%20the%20boil.%20It%20will%20thicken%20considerably%20when%20it%20gets%20to%20the%20boiling%20point.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EStep%204:%20As%20soon%20as%20the%20sauce%20begins%20to%20boil,%20lower%20the%20heat%20to%20low%20and%20simmer%20for%20about%205-10%20minutes,%20seasoning%20well%20with%20salt%20and%20a%20bit%20of%20nutmeg%20to%20taste.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAlternative%20method:%20I%20find%20the%20above%20method%20is%20practically%20fool-proof.%20But%20if%20you%20prefer%20not%20to%20dirty%20an%20extra%20saucepan%20and%20are%20fairly%20skilled%20in%20the%20kitchen,%20could%20can%20skip%20Step%202%20and%20as%20for%20Step%203,%20add%20cold%20milk,%20not%20all%20at%20once,%20but%20in%20a%20thin%20stream,%20as%20you%20whisk%20the%20roux%20vigorously.%20This,%20in%20fact,%20is%20the%20method%20you%20will%20find%20specified%20in%20most%20Italian%20recipe%20books.%20While%20it%20is%20less%20trouble,%20you%20do%20need%20a%20fair%20degree%20of%20skill%20(and%20a%20strong%20arm)%20to%20avoid%20lumps.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENOTES:%20The%20main%20tricks%20to%20making%20a%20good%20b%C3%A9chamel%20include,%20first%20of%20all,%20cooking%20the%20roux%20well,%20or%20else%20your%20sauce%20will%20wind%20up%20tasting%20like%20raw%20flour%E2%80%94not%20very%20nice%E2%80%94without%20darkening%20the%20roux,%20which%20will%20give%20it%20an%20unpleasant%20burnt%20taste.%20(There%20are%20recipes%20where%20you%20want%20a%20brown%20roux,%20but%20this%20is%20not%20one%20of%20them.)%20So%20regulate%20the%20heat%20carefully;%20I%20also%20often%20add%20a%20bit%20of%20oil%20(not%20olive%20oil)%20which%20helps%20the%20butter%20not%20burning.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESecond,%20use%20enough%20butter%20to%20give%20the%20end%20result%20a%20nice%20color%20and%20flavor.%20The%20roux%20should%20not%20clump%20up%20but%20remain%20a%20rather%20liquid%20paste%20that%20covers%20the%20bottom%20of%20the%20saucepan.%20%20If%20you%20find%20your%20roux%20is%20too%20thick,%20just%20add%20more%20butter%20or%20oil.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThird,%20and%20perhaps%20most%20important%20of%20all,%20avoid%20lumps,%20which%20can%20occur%20if%20the%20roux%20does%20not%20fully%20amalgamate%20with%20the%20milk.%20Both%20methods%20indicated%20above%20are%20designed%20to%20avoid%20a%20lumpy%20sauce,%20but%20the%20alternative%20method%20does%20require%20some%20skill%20and%20a%20strong%20hand%20to%20keep%20that%20whisk%20beating%20as%20you%20pour%20in%20the%20milk.%20Keeping%20your%20roux%20rather%20liquid%20helps%20as%20well.%20(If%20you%20do%20wind%20up%20with%20lumps,%20all%20is%20not%20lost:%20you%20can%20always%20pass%20the%20sauce%20through%20a%20fine%20mesh%20sieve%20or%20mix%20it%20in%20a%20blender.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFinally,%20allowing%20the%20b%C3%A9chamel%20to%20simmer%20for%20a%20few%20minutes%20over%20gentle%20heat%20develops%20its%20flavor,%20but%20be%20careful%20not%20to%20allow%20it%20to%20thicken%20too%20much.%20As%20mentioned,%20for%20most%20Italian%20recipes%20you%20want%20a%20rather%20loose%20b%C3%A9chamel.%20Remember%20that%20the%20sauce%20will%20cook%20and%20reduce%20further%20in%20the%20oven,%20and%20will%20be%20absorbed%20by%20the%20pasta,%20so%20you%20want%20a%20loose%20consistency,%20just%20a%20bit%20thicker%20than%20heavy%20cream.%20If%20the%20sauce%20thickens%20too%20much,%20whisk%20in%20a%20bit%20more%20milk.%20The%20sauce%20will%20also%20thicken%20up%20as%20it%20cools,%20so%20bring%20it%20back%20up%20to%20heat%20and/or%20add%20more%20milk%20to%20thin%20it%20out%20before%20using%20it.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAccording%20to%20most%20sources,%20b%C3%A9chamel%20is%20a%20French%20sauce,%20invented%20in%20the%2017th%20century%20by%20La%20Varenne,%20chef%20to%20Louis%20XIV,%20and%20named%20in%20honor%20of%20the%20Louis%20de%20B%C3%A9chamel,%20marquis%20of%20Nointel,%20who%20is%20sometimes%20erroneously%20identified%20as%20its%20inventor.%20Some%20Italian%20authorities%20like%20Giuliano%20Bugialli%20maintain%20that%20b%C3%A9chamel%20was%20invented%20by%20Italians,%20derived%20from%20the%20Florentine%20salsa%20colla%20and,%20like%20some%20many%20things,%20reputed%20to%20have%20been%20brought%20to%20France%20by%20Caterina%20de'%20Medici.%20(I%20sometimes%20wonder%20how%20big%20her%20caravan%20must%20have%20been%20to%20have%20been%20able%20to%20have%20carried%20so%20many,%20many%20items%20to%20her%20new%20country!)%20As%20for%20salsa%20colla,%20I%20have%20not%20yet%20been%20able%20to%20find%20much%20out%20about%20its%20origins%20or%20uses.%20If%20you%20look%20at%20some%20of%20the%20classic%20recipe%20books%20from%20earlier%20times,%20for%20example%20by%20Bartolomeo%20Scappi%20(1500-1577)%20or%20Martino%20di%20Como%20(15th%20century),%20the%20common%20thickeners%20were%20bread%20or%20breadcrumbs%20or,%20believe%20it%20or%20not,%20crushed%20almonds,%20not%20a%20roux.%20Perhaps%20some%20reader%20can%20enlighten%20us?%3C/p%3E){kind=link}