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10.19.14: dinner (fedelini with cremini mushrooms and guanciale as inspired by Manger)
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Elizabeth Schreiter
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFedelini%20with%20Creminis,%20Guanciale,%20and%20Sage%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20post%20marks%20the%20start%20of%20a%20series%20of%20experiments%20that%20can%20be%20credited%20to%20none%20other%20than%20Mimi%20Thorisson%20of%20Manger.%20A%20few%20days%20ago%20I%20came%20across%20her%20most%20recent%20post%20in%20which%20she%20chronicles%20foraging%20for%20porcinis%20to%20make%20the%20most%20beautiful%20homemade%20ravioli%20I%E2%80%99ve%20ever%20seen,%20and%20while%20initially%20I%20wanted%20to%20make%20the%20recipe%20she%20posted,%20I%20realized%20there%20were%20some%20issues:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20only%20porcinis%20I%20can%20find%20are%20dried.%20(Not%20a%20dealbreaker,%20but%20they%20aren%E2%80%99t%20really%20in%20the%20spirit%20of%20the%20recipe.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20recipe%20also%20calls%20for%20pork%20cheeks.%20Pork%20cheeks,%20sadly,%20are%20not%20readily%20available%20near%20us,%20at%20least%20in%20a%20way%20that%20would%20make%20them%20easy%20to%20transport%20home.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFedelini%20with%20Creminis,%20Guanciale,%20and%20Sage%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20realized%20quickly,%20though,%20that%20there%20was%20a%20lot%20of%20room%20for%20improvisation%20here,%20namely%20because%20while%20fresh%20pork%20cheeks%20aren%E2%80%99t%20easy%20to%20come%20by,%20guanciale%20usually%20is%20in%20Fairway%E2%80%99s%20deli%20case.%20Jotting%20some%20notes%20in%20my%20notebook%20I%20initially%20had%20the%20idea%20of%20just%20making%20our%20own%20ravioli%20with%20this%20modified%20mixture,%20but%20the%20thought%20occurred%20to%20me%20on%20Sunday%20that%20perhaps%20it%20might%20be%20worth%20trying%20this%20out%20with%20pasta%20to%20make%20sure%20it%20was%20actually,%20you%20know,%20tasty.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20first%20iteration%20came%20out%20relatively%20well%E2%80%94it%E2%80%99s%20not%20a%20saucy%20pasta,%20but%20more%20in%20the%20spirit%20of%20a%20pasta%20alla%20gricia%20in%20which%20it%E2%80%99s%20about%20the%20components%20rather%20than%20one%20coherent%20sauce.%20It%20felt%20appropriately%20autumnal%20with%20the%20sage%20and%20the%20rosemary%20but%20despite%20the%20fact%20that%20you%20basically%20cook%20everything%20in%20pork%20fat,%20it%20still%20felt%20somewhat%20light.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIn%20order%20to%20make%20this%20into%20something%20that%20can%20be%20stuffed%20into%20ravioli%20we%E2%80%99ll%20have%20to%20chop%20the%20mushrooms%20down%20even%20further,%20but%20it%E2%80%99s%20exciting%20to%20at%20least%20have%20a%20place%20to%20start%20from%20a%20flavor%20perspective.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdd%20guanciale%20to%20a%20cold%20pan%20and%20bring%20to%20low%20heat%20to%20rend%20out%20the%20fat.%20As%20this%20cooks,%20start%20to%20bring%20a%20large%20pot%20of%20water%20to%20boil.%20When%20the%20guanciale%20has%20rendered%20sufficient%20fat%20(between%208-10%20minutes),%20raise%20the%20heat%20to%20medium%20and%20start%20adding%20mushrooms%20in%20batches:%20for%20each%20batch,%20push%20the%20guanciale%20(and%20any%20cooked%20mushrooms%20in%20subsequent%20%20batches)%20out%20to%20the%20edge%20of%20the%20pan%20and%20add%20the%20mushrooms,%20lightly%20seasoning%20with%20salt.%20Cook%20until%20reduced%20in%20size%20by%20about%20a%20half,%20and%20then%20push%20them%20out%20and%20continue%20to%20add%20more%20mushrooms.%20When%20all%20mushrooms%20have%20been%20cooked%20push%20them%20to%20the%20edge%20of%20the%20pan%20and%20add%20the%20shallot%20and%20garlic,%20and%20cook%20until%20fragrant;%20then%20add%20the%20herbs.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EHopefully%20by%20now%20your%20water%20is%20at%20a%20boil,%20so%20add%20salt%20and%20start%20cooking%20the%20fedelini.%20Fedelini%20specifically%20only%20needs%20about%20four%20minutes%20to%20cook%20so%20at%20this%20point%20add%20the%20red%20wine%20to%20the%20pan%20in%20splashes%20to%20make%20sure%20it%20has%20some%20time%20to%20evaporate.%20Meanwhile,%20just%20as%20you%20start%20to%20hit%20the%204-minute%20mark%20with%20the%20fedelini,%20start%20adding%20it%20directly%20to%20the%20pan%20and%20ladle%20in%20a%20bit%20of%20the%20cooking%20water%20to%20help%20it%20finish%20cooking%20in%20the%20sauce.%20Toss%20well%20for%20a%20minute%20or%20two,%20and%20then%20finally%20serve%20with%20freshly%20grated%20Parmigiano%20Reggiano.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ELike%20Loading...%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERelated%3C/p%3E){kind=link}