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Try It, You'll Like It, or, How Did I Get Fatter In Japan?
by
Hugh Amano
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%20to%20the%20point%20that%20my%20palate%20became%20an%20absolutely%20plowed%20field,%20and%20the%20week%20between%20putting%20that%20last%20Arroz%20Gordo%20in%20the%20window%20and%20my%20departure%20to%20Kyoto%20allowed%20said%20field%20to%20rest%20and%20relax%20and%20prepare%20to%20attack%20some%20new%20tastes%20and%20flavors%20and%20textures.%20So%20off%20I%20went.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETai%20and%20Aji%20Sashimi,%20Kofu,%20Yamanashi%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20chef%20here%20took%20me%20horse%20racing%20the%20next%20day.%20Think%20cigarettes%20and%20paper%20bag%20booze--not%20tall%20boots%20and%20funny%20hats.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EUpon%20arrival,%20I%20was%20whisked%20to%20Gaku,%20the%20favorite%20local%20izakaya,%20right%20on%20the%20outskirts%20of%20the%20Suntory%20distillery%20in%20Yamazaki.%20No%20whiskey%20tonight;%20it%20was%20beer,%20then%20hot%20sake,%20then%20a%20steady%20parade%20of%20simple%20but%20delicious%20standards:%20agedashi%20tofu%20(fried%20silken%20tofu%20in%20a%20light%20broth),%20cured%20cod%20roe%20(snappy%20and%20creamy),%20gyu%20suji%20(beef%20tendon%20braised%20until%20soft%20and%20incredibly%20succulent),%20tamagoyaki%20(familiar%20layers%20of%20egg%20rolled%20together),%20tori%20karaage%20(essentially%20fried%20chicken,%20super%20garlicky%20and%20crisp),%20not%20to%20mention%20several%20various%20cuts%20of%20sashimi,%20stunningly%20fresh,%20more%20so%20given%20my%20usual%20(non)%20proximity%20to%20the%20sea.%20My%20brother%20is%20famous%20for%20(not)%20discerning%20types%20of%20fish%20by%20shrugging%20and%20saying%20%22it's%20a%20fish!%22%20Though%20I%20can%20see%20where%20he%20is%20coming%20from,%20within%20the%20criticism%20lies%20the%20answer;%20the%20character%20of%20raw%20fish%20is%20extremely%20subtle,%20and%20if%20one's%20affinity%20is%20toward%20the%20heavier,%20saltier%20snacks,%20there%20isn't%20going%20to%20be%20much%20there%20to%20pick%20up.%20But,%20if%20you%20turn%20your%20other%20senses%20way%20down,%20you'll%20find%20that%20on%20the%20lower%20frequencies,%20the%20personality%20of%20the%20fish%20will%20speak%20loudly.%20Your%20palate%20will%20gain%20your%20other%20sensual%20faculties%20and%20you'll%20taste/smell/see/hear/feel%20the%20freshness,%20the%20smooth%20melting%20fat%20of%20otoro,%20the%20cool%20salinity%20of%20tai,%20the%20crunchy%20snap%20of%20the%20extremely-small%20whole%20baby%20squid.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESuper%20tiny%20baby%20squid,%20crunchy%20and%20sweetMonkfish%20liver%20torchon%20in%20ponzu%20sauce%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20last%20tokkuri%20squeezed%20of%20every%20drop%20of%20sake,%20my%20brother%20in%20law%20gave%20us%20a%20much%20coveted%20ride%20home%20(the%20thought%20of%20adding%20one%20more%20train%20ride%20to%20my%20two%20flights%20and%20blue%20line%20scorecard%20was%20too%20much%20to%20handle),%20we%20all%20had%20a%20groggy%20nightcap,%20and%20I%20floated%20off%20to%20bed.%20If%20you%20find%20yourself%20headed%20to%20Japan,%20I%20have%20a%20few%20pieces%20of%20advice:%20arrive%20in%20the%20evening,%20or%20as%20near%20to%20it%20as%20possible,%20stay%20up%20late,%20and%20don't%20sleep%20in%20forever.%20You'll%20be%20on%20track%20and%20away%20from%20jet%20lag%20in%20no%20time%20(unlike%20the%20trip%20back%20this%20way,%20which%20is%20always%20so%20much%20harder%20to%20overcome).%20Smile%20at%20people%20and%20say--in%20whatever%20busted%20up%20poor%20man's%20version%20of%20Japanese%20you%20can%20muster--things%20like%20%22arigato,%22%20and%20%22sumimasen,%22%20and%20%22konnichi-wa%22.%20You%20know,%20put%20some%20effort%20forth.%20And%20most%20importantly,%20eat%20every%20single%20thing%20that%20is%20put%20in%20front%20of%20you.%20There's%20a%20reason%20people%20eat%20what%20they%20do;%20a%20different%20definition%20of%20delicious%20for%20every%20palate,%20every%20culture.%20Look%20past%20the%20usual%20bacony%20suspects%20of%20fat%20and%20salt%20and%20into%20what%20makes%20that%20particular%20food%20great.%20The%20worst%20thing%20that%20could%20happen%20is%20it%20bites%20you%20back.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}