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top chef experiment: take three (dashi with miso cured cod)
by
Jenn Murphy
Текущий рейтинг: 4.0
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,%20%22The%20whole%20is%20greater%20than%20the%20sum%20of%20its%20parts.%22%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBites%20of%20each%20ingredient%20on%20its%20own%20are%20tasty%20in%20their%20own%20right.%20But%20a%20single%20bite%20including%20a%20taste%20of%20each%20component%20part%20makes%20the%20dish%20a%20whole%20other%20thing;%20an%20experience%20unto%20itself.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EYes,%20I'm%20gushing.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBut%20the%20thing%20is,%20I'm%20in%20awe%20of%20someone%20who%20can%20take%20all%20these%20separate%20ingredients%20and%20make%20them%20work%20not%20just%20as%20a%20harmonious%20whole%20but%20also%20showcase%20each%20ingredient%20independently%20of%20the%20rest.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI'm%20gonna%20go%20ahead%20and%20guess%20that%20that's%20part%20of%20what%20made%20Michael%20Voltaggio%20the%20winner%20of%20Top%20Chef%20this%20season.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESo,%20about%20the%20dish...%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20know%20it%20seems%20a%20bit%20summery%20for,%20well,%20the%20dead%20of%20winter%20but%20it%20was%20just%20what%20I%20was%20looking%20for%20after%20all%20the%20holiday%20heaviness.%20Refreshing%20and%20light.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAn%20important%20note,%20I%20used%20Atlantic%20Cod,%20not%20Black%20Cod%20as%20in%20the%20original.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDid%20you%20know%20that%20Black%20Cod%20isn't%20even%20really%20Cod,%20it's%20sablefish?%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENo?%20Neither%20did%20I.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E%22Knowing%20is%20half%20the%20battle.%22%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EG.I.%20Joe%20(Real%20American%20Hero)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20am%20very%20aware%20of%20the%20issues%20of%20sustainability%20and%20over-fishing%20of%20this%20fish.%20In%20fact%20that's%20partly%20why%20I%20chose%20to%20use%20it%20and%20not%20Black%20Cod.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI'm%20a%20Newfie%20(half-Newfie%20anyways)%20and%20my%20family%20in%20Newfoundland%20was%20greatly%20affected%20by%20the%20moratorium%20placed%20on%20the%20cod%20fishery%20by%20the%20Canadian%20government%2015%20years%20ago.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAtlantic%20Cod%20is%20part%20of%20my%20heritage,%20and%20I%20wanted%20to%20give%20it%20a%20moment%20in%20the%20culinary%20spotlight%20(however%20faint%20the%20spotlight%20of%20this%20blog%20might%20be.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThere%20is%20some%20good%20news%20for%20the%20Atlantic%20Cod.%20It%20is%20being%20successfully%20farmed%20and%20wild%20Cod%20stocks%20have%20recovered%20to%20the%20point%20where%20limited%20fishing%20is%20being%20once%20again%20allowed%20off%20the%20coast%20of%20Newfoundland.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EProof%20cod%20fishing%20has%20re-opened?%20We%20have%20a%20freezer%20full%20of%20the%20stuff,%20brought%20back%20from%20my%20Dad's%20trip%20%22down%20home%22%20this%20past%20summer.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBut%20now%20back%20to%20Michael%20Voltaggio%20and%20his%20delicious%20creation.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIt's%20been%20a%20while%20since%20I%20cooked%20anything%20Asian%20inspired.%20I%20almost%20forgot%20how%20much%20I%20love%20it.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EEach%20ingredient%20was%20so%20vibrant%20but%20so%20balanced.%20All%20the%20bright%20citrus%20contrasted%20with%20the%20earthiness%20of%20the%20dashi%20broth%20and%20the%20delicate%20cod.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAnd%20then%20there%20was%20the%20watermelon.%20That%20was%20the%20most%20surprising%20part%20of%20the%20dish%20for%20me.%20I%20wasn't%20totally%20sure%20how%20watermelon%20would%20fit%20in%20with%20citrus,%20fish%20and%20Asian%20flavours.%20But%20the%20watermelon%20really%20tied%20everything%20together.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESo%20amazing!%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThere%20was%20a%20lot%20of%20prep%20for%20this%20dish%20(my%20arm%20hurt%20from%20zesting)%20but%20the%20actual%20cooking%20was%20totally%20simple.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAnd%20so%20good!%20Did%20I%20mention%20it%20was%20good?%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EHere's%20the%20recipe:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDashi%20with%20Miso%20Cured%20Cod%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E(adapted%20from%20Michael%20Voltaggio)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMix%20miso,%20mirin,%20and%20tamari%20soy%20sauce%20together.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESpread%20on%20sheet%20tray.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPlace%20fish%20on%20tray%20flesh%20side%20down.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMarinate%20for%20an%20hour.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPlace%20kombu%20in%20pot%20with%203%20cups%20water.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBring%20to%20a%20boil%20and%20immediately%20remove%20from%20heat.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdd%20bonito%20flakes.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESteep%20mixture%20for%203%20minutes.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPlace%20sliced%20shitakes%20in%20a%20bowl%20and%20pour%20steeped%20kombu%20mixture%20through%20a%20strainer%20and%20over%20the%20mushrooms.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdd%20ginger%20and%20allow%20to%20come%20to%20room%20temp.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EChill%20mixture%20over%20ice%20bath.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdd%20orange,%20lemon%20and%20lime%20zest%20and%20juices,%20tomatoes,%20green%20onions%20and%20soy%20sauce.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECut%20watermelon%20into%202%20inch%20thick%20rectangles%20and%20marinate%20in%20lime%20zest,%20juice%20and%20olive%20oil.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERemove%20fish%20from%20marinade.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWipe%20off%20excess%20cure%20and%20Pat%20dry%20thoroughly%20with%20paper%20towel.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECut%20into%20serving%20sized%20portions%20and%20slowly%20sear%20in%20a%20pan%20with%2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