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Scalloppine al marsala
by
Frank Fariello
Текущий рейтинг: 5.0
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%20and%20its%20manifold%20variations%20may%20be%20the%20most%20common%20secondo%20in%20Italian%20cooking.%20To%20me,%20it%20is%20typical%20of%20that%20Italian%20knack%20for%20using%20a%20bland%20main%20ingredient%20as%20a%20foil%20for%20a%20flavorful%20sauce.%20Pasta%20is%20the%20example%20we%20all%20know%20and%20love,%20but%20in%20this%20case%20una%20fettina%20di%20carne,%20or%20a%20slice%20of%20meat,%20serves%20as%20the%20foil%20instead.%20Veal%20is%20the%20classic%20choice,%20as%20it%20has%20only%20a%20very%20mild%20flavor%20of%20its%20own.%20These%20days,%20turkey%20or%20pork%20(and,%20particularly%20outside%20Italy,%20chicken%20breast)%20provide%20less%20expensive%20alternatives.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EScalloppine%20look%20very%20elegant%20on%20a%20serving%20platter,%20but%20they%20are%20really%20very%20quick%20and%20easy%20to%20make,%20as%20perfect%20for%20a%20weekday%20supper%20as%20they%20are%20for%20an%20important%20dinner%20for%20company.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIngredients%20(for%204%20servings)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDirections%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETake%20you%20slices%20of%20meat%20and,%20placing%20them%20between%20two%20sheets%20of%20waxed%20paper,%20give%20them%20a%20good%20thumping%20with%20the%20back%20of%20a%20heavy%20skillet%E2%80%94or%20with%20a%20meat%20pounder,%20if%20you%20have%20one.%20This%20will%20thin%20them%20out%20even%20more%20and%20break%20down%20some%20of%20the%20fiber%20in%20the%20meat,%20rendering%20it%20more%20tender.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMeanwhile,%20heat%20the%20butter%20(or%20butter%20and%20oil,%20or%20even%20just%20oil%20if%20you'd%20rather)%20in%20a%20skillet%20over%20medium-high%20heat.%20When%20the%20foam%20subsides,%20add%20the%20slices,%20which%20you%20will%20have%20very%20light%20floured%20just%20beforehand.%20Make%20sure%20they%20are%20not%20crowded%20in%20the%20pan%20or%20they%20will%20not%20brown%20properly.%20(If%20your%20skillet%20is%20not%20big%20enough%20to%20hold%20all%20the%20slices%20at%20one%20go,%20you%20can%20proceed%20in%20batches.)%20Sear%20them%20for%20just%2030%20seconds%20or%20so%20on%20each%20side,%20seasoning%20well%20with%20salt%20and%20pepper.%20They%20should%20lightly%20brown%20around%20the%20edges.%20Remove%20the%20slices%20to%20a%20heated%20platter%20and%20keep%20warm.%20(A%20toaster%20oven%20set%20to%20'warm'%20is%20perfect%20for%20this.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdd%20the%20marsala%20to%20the%20pan,%20scraping%20up%20any%20browned%20bits%20from%20the%20bottom%20of%20the%20skillet.%20Let%20it%20reduce%20until%20it%20forms%20a%20syrupy%20sauce.%20Then,%20turning%20off%20the%20heat,%20add%20the%20slices%20back%20to%20the%20pan%20and%20turn%20them%20around%20to%20coat%20well.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EArrange%20the%20slices%20on%20a%20warmed%20platter,%20pour%20over%20any%20remaining%20sauce%20in%20the%20skillet,%20and%20serve%20immediately.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENOTES:%20%20The%20above%20recipe%20will%20produce%20a%20small%20amount%20of%20intensely%20flavored%20marsala%20'sauce',%20which%20is%20just%20the%20way%20I%20like%20it.%20I%20also%20like%20to%20swirl%20in%20a%20pat%20of%20butter%20off%20heat,%20which%20smooths%20out%20the%20sauce%20and%20gives%20it%20a%20nice%20sheen.%20If%20you%20prefer%20more%20sauce%E2%80%94better%20to%20'fare%20la%20scarpetta'%E2%80%94you%20can%20dilute%20the%20marsala%20in%20a%20cup%20or%20more%20of%20broth%20mixed%20with%20a%20spoonful%20of%20flour%20or%20corn%20starch.%20In%20this%20case,%20simmer%20the%20sauce%20over%20gentler%20heat%20for%20a%20minute%20or%20two,%20long%20enough%20to%20thicken,%20but%20don't%20allow%20it%20to%20reduce%20very%20much.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20think%20it%20was%20Marcella%20Hazan,%20way%20back%20in%20the%201970's,%20who%20pointed%20out%20that%20veal%20scalloppine%20should%20be%20sliced%20against%20the%20grain.%20Unfortunately,%20American%20supermarkets%20don't%20seem%20to%20have%20listened.%20You%20will%20still%20find%20most%20veal%20slices%20cut%20with%20the%20grain,%20which%20means%20that%20they%20will%20tend%20to%20curl%20and%20toughen%20as%20they%20cook.%20Not%20much%20that%20can%20be%20done%20about%20this.%20Marcella's%20solution%E2%80%94buying%20a%20whole%20veal%20loin%20and%20slicing%20it%20yourself%E2%80%94is%20an%20effective%20but%20prohibitively%20pricey%20for%20most%20of%20us.%20I%20just%20whack%20the%20heck%20out%20of%20the%20veal%20and%20trim%20off%20any%20filament%20in%20hopes%20that%20that%20will%20do%20the%20trick,%20and%20I%20usually%20get%20a%20serviceable%20result.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIf%20you%20are%20using%20chicken%20breasts,%20you%20should%20start%20by%20slicing%20off%20the%20little%20'extra'%20flap%20of%20meat%20on%20the%20underside%20of%20the%20breast%20called%20the%20tenderloin,%20then%20cut%20the%20main%20part%20of%20the%20breast%20width-wise%20into%20two%20slices.%20The%20operation%20is%20easier%20if%20you%20apply%20gentle%20pressure%20on%20the%20top%20of%20the%20breast%20with%20the%20palm%20of%20one%20hand%20while%20slicing%20with%20the%20other.%20(NB:%20Extra-plump%20breasts%20you%20often%20find%20these%20days%20are%20thick%20enough%20for%20three%20slices.)%20Then%20proceed%20to%20flatten%20the%20tenderloin%20and%20slices%20as%20described%20in%20the%20main%20recipe.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENo%20matter%20what%20meat%20you%20use,%20it's%20crucial%20that%20the%20slices%20be%20quite%20thin%E2%80%94remember,%20the%20meat%20is%20really%20meant%20as%20a%20foil%20or%20vehicle%20to%20carry%20the%20sauce;%20it%20is%20not%20actually%20the%20star%20of%20the%20show.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThere%20are%20other%20well-known%20scalloppine%20dishes,%20perhaps%20the%20best%20known%20being%20the%20scalloppine%20al%20limone%20(finished%20with%20lemon%20juice%20rather%20than%20marsala%20wine).%20%20Saltimbocca%20alla%20romana,%20one%20of%20the%20signatory%20secondi%20of%20Roman%20cookery,%20is%20really%20just%20a%20kind%20of%20scallopine%20dish,%20a%20bit%20more%20elaborate.%20Some%20recipes%20can%20get%20quite%20elaborate,%20adding%20ham,%20cheese,%20asparagus...%20And%20if%20you%20stuff%20and%20roll%20your%20meat%20slices,%20you%20wind%20up%20with%20involtini.%20But%20I%20guess%20I'm%20getting%20ahead%20of%20myself;%20I'll%20save%20these%20subjects%20for%20future%20posts...%3C/p%3E){kind=link}