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More fun with the iSi siphon: cheesecake foam.
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Текущий рейтинг: 4.0
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%20In%20all%20fairness,%20there%20was%20a%20really,%20really%20good%20reason%20for%20why%20we%20never%20made%20it%20when%20we%20lived%20in%20either%20New%20York%20or%20Stamford:%20one%20cheesecake%20is%20way%20too%20much%20for%20two%20otherwise%20reasonable%20people%20to%20eat,%20and%20to%20be%20completely%20frank%20we%E2%80%99d%20probably%20end%20up%20like%20Rachel%20and%20Chandler%20from%20the%20Friends%20episode%20%E2%80%9CThe%20One%20With%20All%20the%20Cheesecake,%E2%80%9D%20driven%20to%20cheesecake-induced%20madness:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Ehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdYy_7rsLKk%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECheesecake%20foam%20on%20vanilla%20wafers%20with%20berries.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESo%20instead%20we%20would%20sometimes%20get%20it%20when%20we%E2%80%99d%20go%20out,%20or%20more%20importantly%20take%20every%20chance%20to%20indulge%20when%20either%20of%20our%20moms%20would%20make%20one%20from%20scratch.%20After%20the%20iSi%20came%20into%20our%20lives,%20though,%20I%20started%20wondering%20if%20it%20would%20be%20possible%20to%20replicate%20the%20taste%20of%20cheesecake,%20albeit%20in%20a%20lighter,%20aerated%20fashion.%20Some%20poking%20around%20on%20the%20internet%20answered%20that%20question%20quickly%E2%80%93of%20course%20it%20was%20yes%E2%80%93and%20so%20I%20started%20playing%20around%20with%20one%20recipe%20that%20I%20found%20particularly%20interesting.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20primary%20challenge%20with%20this%20dish%20is%20dealing%20with%20the%20cream%20cheese%20itself.%20You%20have%20to%20allow%20the%20cream%20cheese%20to%20first%20come%20to%20room%20temperature%20and%20you%20also%20have%20to%20let%20the%20batter%20go%20for%20quite%20a%20while%20in%20your%20stand%20mixer%20to%20make%20sure%20that%20no%20lumps%20are%20overlooked.%20The%20water%20and%20yogurt%20help%20bring%20everything%20together,%20but%20it%20seems%20like%20no%20matter%20how%20long%20you%20let%20it%20go,%20there%20will%20inevitably%20be%20a%20couple%20of%20pieces%20of%20cheese%20that%20refuse%20to%20fully%20cooperate%20and%20incorporate%20into%20the%20rest%20of%20the%20mixture.%20The%20solution%20I%E2%80%99ve%20found%20is%20when%20you%E2%80%99re%20carefully%20spooning%20the%20mixture%20into%20the%20canister,%20keep%20any%20large%20lumps%20you%20find%20in%20the%20mixer%20bowl%20and%20beat%20them%20again%E2%80%93they%20will%20break%20down%20and%20become%20much%20more%20siphon-friendly%20with%20just%20a%20little%20more%20time.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EYou%20will%20be%20rewarded%20for%20this%20little%20bit%20of%20added%20effort%20and%20attention,%20because%20this%20stuff%20can%20be%20used%20in%20so%20many%20ways.%20I%E2%80%99ve%20topped%20little%20vanilla%20wafers%20with%20some%20of%20this%20foam%20and%20then%20topping%20them%20with%20some%20fresh%20berries,%20and%20I%E2%80%99ve%20also%20topped%20some%20larger%20chocolate%20biscuits%20from%20England%20that%20were%20good,%20but%20almost%20too%20intense%20when%20combined%20together.%20Most%20recently,%20though,%20I%20had%20the%20thought%20to%20deconstruct%20the%20cheesecake%20with%20some%20modernist%20food%20techniques%20and%20so%20over%20the%20weekend%20I%20tested%20out%20a%20combination%20of%20cheesecake%20foam%20over%20a%20bed%20of%20chocolate%20graham%20cracker%20crust%20and%20served%20alongside%20a%20blackberry%20raviolo.%20The%20ravioli%20need%20a%20bit%20of%20work%20(the%20technique%20is%20there%20but%20I%20want%20to%20get%20the%20flavors%20right)%20and%20deserve%20their%20own%20post.%20In%20the%20meantime,%20you%20can%20comfort%20yourself%20with%20the%20fluffiest%20and%20creamiest%20cheesecake%20filling%20you%E2%80%99ll%20ever%20taste.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWow.%20Much%20modern.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECheesecake%20Foam%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E50%20g%20yogurt%20(I%20would%20imagine%20that%20full-fat%20would%20be%20slightly%20tastier,%20but%20even%20the%20non-fat%20that%20was%20available%20to%20me%20worked%20really%20well%20and%20yielded%20a%20very%20light%20foam)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E1.5%20tablespoons%20honey%20(or%20to%20taste)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EStart%20beating%20the%20cream%20cheese%20on%20medium-low%20in%20the%20bowl%20of%20a%20stand%20mixer,%20and%20as%20it%20becomes%20smooth%20add%20the%20other%20ingredients%20and%20let%20it%20get%20very%20smooth.%20(Adjust%20flavorings%20to%20taste.)%20Carefully%20spoon%20the%20mixture%20into%20the%20canister%20of%20an%20iSi%20siphon,%20reserving%20any%20large%20lumps%20in%20the%20bowl%20and%20re-mixing%20them%20to%20smooth%20them%20out%20before%20adding%20any%20additional%20batter%20into%20the%20can.%20Close%20the%20canister,%20charge%20with%20two%20cream%20cartridges%20(shake%20the%20canister%20between%20charges%20to%20help%20distribute%20the%20gas)%20and%20let%20chill%20for%20at%20least%20an%20hour%20before%20serving.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETo%20dispense,%20invert%20the%20can%20and%20carefully%20pull%20the%20trigger%20into%20serving%20vessel%20of%20choice.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}