Самая большая кухня в мире
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fried & true
by
Heather Wetzel
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Marinated Black Eyed Peas
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,%20or%20head%20back%20%E2%80%98home%E2%80%99.%20For%20most%20of%20my%20time%20in%20grad%20school,%20I%20was%20juggling%20gettin%E2%80%99%20my%20learn%20on%20with%20planning%20a%20wedding%20that%20was%20to%20take%20place%20in%20North%20Carolina,%20so%20school%20breaks%20typically%20meant%20heading%20there%20for%20cake%20tasting,%20photographer%20shopping,%20and%20finding%20that-dress-I%E2%80%99d-never-wear-again-in-my-life.%20Although,%20if%20I%20find%20myself%20getting%20hitched%20again,%20I%E2%80%99ll%20do%20the%20green%20thing,%20and%20I%E2%80%99ll%20recycle%20it.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EHaving%20the%20luxury%20of%20being%20in%20my%20home%20state%20so%20frequently%20was%20certainly%20groovy%20for%20wedding%20planning,%20but%20it%20was%20also%20great%20for%20something%20else:%20indulging%20in,%20and%20by%20that%20I%20mean%20eating%20a%20hella%20lot%20of,%20my%20favorite%20foods.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIt%20should%20come%20as%20no%20surprise%20to%20you%20dear%20friends%20of%20mine%20that%20one%20of%20the%20foods%20on%20that%20list%20was%20fried%20chicken.%20But%20let%E2%80%99s%20set%20the%20record%20straight%20so%20there%E2%80%99s%20no%20chance%20for%20confusion:%20not%20just%20any%20fried%20chicken.%20I%E2%80%99d%20happily%20eat%20two%20kinds,%20and%20those%20two%20were%20either%20given%20to%20me%20in%20a%20yellow%20box%20through%20a%20window%20along%20with%20sweat%20tea,%20dirty%20rice,%20and%20honey%20mustard%20sauce,%20or%20hand-dipped%20in%20buttermilk%20and%20flour%20and%20pan-fried%20by,%20on%20a%20good%20day,%20my%20Aunt%20Faye%20(on%20a%20semi-good%20day,%20my%20pops).%20And%20served%20with%20biscuits,%20clearly.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20dare%20you%20to%20find%20better.%20Double-dog%20dare%20you.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMany%20of%20you%20may%20remember%20my%20most%20recent%20trip%20back%20to%20North%20Carolina,%20a%20visit%20filled%20with%20emotions,%20both%20happy%20and%20sad.%20As%20would%20be%20customary%20when%20there%E2%80%99s%20a%20death%20in%20the%20family,%20the%20need%20for%20cooking%20is%20generally%20placed%20on%20the%20back%20burner,%20so%20to%20speak.%20And%20though%20my%20Aunt,%20in%20my%20mind,%20has%20probably%20made%20fried%20chicken%20at%20least%20every%20weekend%20of%20her%20adult%20life,%20that%20weekend%20was%20different,%20for%20obvious%20reasons.%20Fortunately,%20the%20Bojang%20is%20relatively%20close%20by,%20therefore%20her%20kitchen%20counter%20was%20loaded%20with%20yellow%20boxes%20and%20about%20ten%20thousand%20other%20things%20as%20well.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%E2%80%99ve%20had%20a%20hankerin%E2%80%99%20for%20another%20piece%20of%20fried%20chicken%20since%20that%20time.%20I%20didn%E2%80%99t%20dare%20try%20to%20replicate%20Aunt%20Faye%E2%80%99s,%20though.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EUnsure%20of%20whether%20I%E2%80%99d%20really%20make%20it%20or%20not,%20I%E2%80%99d%20clipped%20this%20recipe%20from%20a%20Saveur%20magazine%20I%E2%80%99d%20purchased%20a%20few%20months%20back,%20and%20remembered%20it%20when%20I%20opened%20the%20freezer%20and%20realized%20I%20had%20a%20whole%20chicken%20that%20was%20practically%20begging%20me%20to%20fry%20it.%20Following%20a%20perusal%20of%20the%20recipe,%20I%E2%80%99d%20deduced%20that%20it%20was%20relatively%20basic,%20straightforward,%20but%20spicy.%20It%20was%20right%20up%20my%20alley,%20and%20aside%20from%20the%20matzo%20meal%20(let%E2%80%99s%20be%20honest:%20does%20any%20non-Jewish%20person%20keep%20that%20around?!)%20I%20had%20all%20the%20ingredients.%20What%20the%20hell,%20right?%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThere%E2%80%99s%20something%20magical%20about%20dunking%20a%20lightly%20battered%20chicken%20leg%20into%20a%20container%20of%20crazy-hot%20oil.%20The%20oil,%20calm%20aside%20from%20a%20pop%20here%20and%20a%20pop%20there,%20is%20suddenly%20engulfing%20the%20meat,%20sizzling%20furiously,%20erupting%20dramatically,%20volcano-like.%20The%20smell%20%E2%80%93%20regardless%20of%20the%20differing%20recipe%20%E2%80%93%20immediately%20teleported%20me%20back%20to%20NC,%20back%20to%20the%20dome%20house%20my%20Aunt%20Faye%20has%20lived%20in%20for%20most%20of%20my%20life;%20I,%20yes%20I,%20was%20frying%20chicken%20that%20smelled%20like%20hers.%20Minutes%20later,%20the%20sizzling%20continuing,%20it%E2%80%99s%20cooked%20and%20transferred%20to%20a%20napkin-lined%20plate%20to%20cool%20(and%20sure,%20to%20drain%20a%20bit,%20too).%20Crisp%20to%20the%20touch,%20I%20can%20hardly%20wait%20for%20the%20oil%20to%20cool,%20but%20fearing%20burnt%20lips,%20I%20do.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhen%20that%20moment%20arrived,%20that%20moment%20when%20I%20could%20finally%20feel%20that%20crunch%20I%E2%80%99d%20been%20staring%20at%20for%20at%20least%205%20minutes,%20it%20was%20nothing%20short%20of%20remarkable.%20Crunch?%20Oh%20baby,%20yeah,%20and%20I%20thought,%20%E2%80%9CWhy%20doesn%E2%80%99t%20everybody%20fry%20with%20matzo%20meal?!%E2%80%9D.%20The%20spices?%20permeating%20every%20bite%20%E2%80%93%20a%20bit%20of%20smoke%20proving%20the%20wise%20doubling%20of%20paprika,%20a%20bit%20of%20freshness%20from%20another%20wise%20addition%20of%20zest,%20and%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