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Filetti di pesce al finocchio (Fish Fillets with Braised Fennel)
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Frank Fariello
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhere%20would%20Italian%20food%20in%20the%20US%20be%20without%20Marcella%20Hazan?%20As%20much%20as%20I%20treasure%20my%20Campanian%20and%20Puglian%20food%20roots,%20I%20am%20forever%20thankful%20for%20the%20horizons%20that%20Marcella's%201973%20Classic%20Italian%20Cooking%20opened%20up%20for%20me.%20And%20even%20almost%2040%20years%20later,%20she%20continues%20to%20inspire.%20Here%20is%20my%20take%20on%20a%20lovely%20recipe%20that,%20for%20me,%20epitomizes%20Marcella's%20special%20genius,%20from%20her%20Essentials%20of%20Italian%20Cooking,%20recently%20released%20as%20an%20e-book.%20(And%20if%20you%20don't%20own%20it,%20you%20absolutely%20must%20get%20it.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMarcella's%20recipe%20calls%20for%20a%20whole%20fish,%20which%20is%20the%20way%20I%20think%20most%20Italians%20would%20make%20it.%20Fish%20on%20the%20bone,%20like%20meat%20on%20the%20bone,%20does%20have%20better%20flavor.%20But%20here%20in%20the%20US%20fillets%20are%20much%20easier%20to%20come%20by%20and,%20it%20must%20be%20admitted,%20quicker%20to%20cook%20and%20easier%20to%20serve%20and%20eat.%20So%20I%20have%20adapted%20her%20recipe%20for%20fillets.%20I%20have%20also%20made%20one%20other%20little%20tweak:%20rather%20than%20making%20the%20entire%20dish%20on%20the%20stove,%20I%20use%20a%20two-step%20process,%20braising%20the%20fennel%20then%20finishing%20the%20dish%20in%20a%20hot%20oven.%20That%20ensures%20the%20will%20cook%20more%20evenly%20and%20avoid%20the%20need%20to%20turn%20the%20fish%20over,%20which%20can%20be%20a%20bit%20awkward%20for%20the%20novice%20cook.%20The%20short%20time%20it%20takes%20to%20cook%20fillets%20ensures%20that%20the%20dish%20will%20not%20dry%20out.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIngredients%20(to%20serve%204)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E4%20fillets%20firm-fleshed%20fish%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDirections%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECover%20the%20bottom%20of%20a%20capacious%20saut%C3%A9%20pan%20with%20a%20generous%20coating%20of%20olive%20oil,%20then%20add%20your%20sliced%20fennel,%20a%20splash%20of%20water%20and%20sprinkle%20with%20salt.%20Give%20it%20all%20a%20good%20turn%20to%20coat%20the%20fennel%20slices,%20then%20cover%20and%20let%20the%20fennel%20simmer%20for%20about%2015-20%20minutes,%20or%20until%20the%20fennel%20has%20become%20very%20tender.%20While%20the%20fennel%20is%20simmering,%20uncover%20from%20time%20to%20time%20and%20give%20it%20all%20a%20very%20gentle%20turn%E2%80%94or,%20if%20you%20are%20feeling%20a%20bit%20adventurous,%20a%20flip,%20which%20will%20be%20less%20bruising%20to%20the%20fennel.%20Either%20way,%20however,%20by%20the%20end%20of%20the%20cooking,%20the%20fennel%20is%20likely%20to%20have%20broken%20up,%20which%20is%20perfectly%20fine.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EUncover%20the%20fennel%20and%20raise%20the%20heat%20to%20cook%20off%20all%20the%20excess%20liquid%20in%20the%20pan,%20turning%20(or%20flipping)%20the%20fennel%20frequently.%20If%20you%20like,%20you%20can%20let%20the%20fennel%20go%20a%20bit%20longer%20to%20caramelize%20it%20a%20bit.%20Season%20generously%20with%20salt%20and%20pepper.%20I%20like%20to%20add%20a%20handful%20of%20the%20fronds,%20finely%20minced,%20to%20the%20fennel%20just%20before%20removing%20it%20from%20the%20heat%20for%20some%20extra%20fennel%20flavor.%20Or%20you%20can%20add%20some%20fresh%20herbs%20if%20you%20like,%20like%20rosemary%20or%20marjoram.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EGrease%20a%20gratin%20dish%20large%20enough%20to%20hold%20your%20fish%20fillets%20in%20a%20single%20layer%20(which,%20if%20you%20like,%20you%20will%20have%20rubbed%20with%20a%20split%20garlic%20clove)%20and%20into%20which%20you%20lay%20the%20fennel%20to%20make%20a%20'bed'%20for%20your%20fish.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESeason%20the%20fish%20fillets%20with%20salt%20and%20pepper%20and%20lightly%20oil%20them%20%20as%20well.%20Then%20lay%20the%20fillets%20in%20the%20gratin%20dish%20on%20top%20of%20the%20bed%20of%20fennel.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERoast%20the%20fish%20and%20fennel%20is%20a%20hot%20oven%20(200%C2%B0C/400%C2%B0F)%20for%20about%2010-15%20minutes,%20or%20until%20the%20fish%20is%20just%20done,%20taking%20care%20not%20to%20overcook%20the%20fish.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EServe%20the%20fillets%20on%20to%20plates,%20with%20a%20generous%20heap%20of%20fennel%E2%80%94which%20by%20now%20will%20have%20turned%20into%20a%20rough%20pur%C3%A9e%E2%80%94on%20top%20of%20each%20fillet.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENOTES:%20If%20you%20are%20serving%20this%20dish%20as%20a%20piatto%20unico%20(ie,%20without%20a%20preceding%20first%20course%20of%20pasta,%20rice%20or%20soup)%20then%20a%20few%20steamed%20potatoes%20on%20the%20side%20rounds%20things%20out%20very%20nicely.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMarcella%20recommends%20red%20snapper%20for%20this%20dish,%20although%20most%20Italian%20recipes%20I've%20seen%20call%20for%20orata%20(sea%20bream),%20branzino%20or%20swordfish.%20It%20is%20also%20very%20good%20(but%20different)%20made%20with%20the%20assertive%20mackerel%20(merluzzo).%20Really,%20any%20firm-fleshed%20fish%20will%20do%20nicely.%20Last%20night%20we%20had%20good%20'ol%20American%20catfish%20fillets.%20They%20were%20very%20economical%20and%20perfectly%20delicious%20made%20this%20way.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFor%20whatever%20reason,%20I%20usually%20associate%20the%20pairing%20of%20fish%20and%20vegetables%20with%20Ligurian%20cooking,%20but%20this%20dish%20actually%20hails%20from%20Sicily,%20or%20so%20they%20say.%20It%20should%20not%20be%20surprising,%20then,%20that%20some%20versions%20of%20this%20recipe%20call%20for%20adding%20pachini%20(cherry%20tomatoes),%20capers%20and/or%20olives,%20which,%20of%20course,%20give%20the%20dish%20a%20lot%20more%20zest.%20But%20personally,%20I%20like%20the%20mellow%20flavors%20of%20fish%20and%20fennel%20without%20much%20else%20to%20get%20in%20the%20way.%20It%20is%20another%20example%20of%20culinary%20balance,%20this%20time%20with%20two%20flavors%20complementing,%20rather%20than%20contrasting,%20each%20other.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}