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Branzino al sale (Sea bass roasted in a salt crust)
by
Frank Fariello
Текущий рейтинг: 5.0
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:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDirections:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIn%20a%20large%20bowl,%20pour%20in%20the%20salt%20and%20sprinkle%20with%20a%20bit%20of%20water.%20Mix%20well%20with%20your%20hands,%20adding%20more%20water%20as%20needed,%20so%20that%20the%20salt%20is%20ever%20so%20slightly%20moistened%20and%20the%20grains%20of%20salt%20begin%20to%20adhere%20to%20each%20other.%20The%20texture%20of%20the%20salt%20will%20turn%20coarser,%20a%20bit%20like%20wet%20sand.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ELay%20down%20a%20'bed'%20of%20salt%20in%20a%20roasting%20pan%20large%20enough%20to%20hold%20the%20fish.%20Then%20lay%20your%20fish%20down.%20If%20you%20like,%20you%20can%20place%20a%20sprig%20of%20rosemary,%20a%20few%20bits%20of%20garlic%20or%20a%20few%20thin%20slices%20of%20lemon%20in%20the%20fish's%20cavity.%20Or%20you%20can%20simply%20leave%20the%20fish%20be.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECover%20the%20fish%20entirely%20with%20the%20rest%20of%20the%20salt.%20(Some%20recipes%20suggest%20you%20leave%20the%20eye%20uncovered%20to%20judge%20doneness.%20I%20don't%20do%20this.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERoast%20in%20a%20very%20hot%20oven%20(220%C2%B0C,%20450%C2%B0F)%20for%2025-30%20minutes,%20depending%20on%20the%20size%20of%20the%20fish.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ELet%20the%20fish%20cool%20for%20a%20few%20minutes%20(no%20more%20than%20five,%20however,%20or%20the%20salt%20will%20begin%20to%20penetrate%20the%20fish).%20Crack%20open%20the%20salt,%20which%20will%20have%20formed%20a%20hard%20crust%20around%20the%20fish,%20and%20uncover%20the%20fish.%20The%20skin%20should%20adhere%20to%20the%20salt%20as%20you%20remove%20it.%20If%20not,%20skin%20the%20fish.%20If%20you're%20careful%20(more%20careful%20than%20I've%20been%20here)%20you'll%20be%20able%20to%20lift%20the%20fillets%20out%20whole,%20to%20the%20admiration%20and%20wonder%20of%20your%20dinner%20guests.%20This%20particular%20evening,%20I%20wasn't%20in%20the%20mood...%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EServe%20the%20fish%20fillets%20drizzled%20with%20some%20best%20quality%20olive%20oil,%20a%20squeeze%20of%20fresh%20lemon%20and,%20if%20you%20like,%20a%20good%20grinding%20of%20black%20pepper.%20Some%20people%20like%20to%20sprinkle%20the%20fish%20with%20some%20freshly%20chopped%20parsley%20for%20color.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENOTES:%20The%20recipe%20admits%20a%20few%20minor%20variations.%20Many%20recipes%20omit%20the%20first%20step%20of%20mixing%20the%20salt%20with%20liquid.%20Rather,%20the%20raw%20salt%20is%20simply%20piled%20up%20around%20the%20fish.%20That%20makes%20it%20much%20easier%20to%20get%20at%20the%20fish%20afterwards,%20as%20it%20does%20not%20form%20the%20same%20sort%20of%20hard%20crust.%20But%20that%20also%20means%20that%20the%20salt%20will%20tend%20to%20penetrate%20the%20fish,%20leaving%20a%20saltier%20taste.%20No%20bother%20for%20a%20salt%20fiend%20like%20myself,%20but%20some%20people%20might%20object.%20Interestingly,%20most%20English-language%20recipes%20for%20this%20dish%20call%20for%20mixing%20the%20salt%20with%20egg%20whites.%20Only%20one%20of%20the%20myriad%20Italian-language%20recipes%20I've%20seen%20call%20for%20this.%20Not%20sure%20why,%20nor%20have%20I%20tried%20to%20use%20egg%20whites%E2%80%94seems%20like%20a%20waste%20of%20good%20eggs!%E2%80%94so%20I%20can't%20tell%20you%20what%20difference%20it%20may%20make.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESome%20recipes%20also%20call%20for%20a%20lower%20roasting%20temperature%20and%20a%20longer%20cooking%20time.%20That%20also%20strikes%20me%20as%20a%20risky%20proposition.%20Obviously,%20though,%20if%20you%20use%20a%20much%20bigger%20fish,%20increase%20the%20cooking%20time%20accordingly.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBranzino%20(sea%20bass)%20is%20said%20to%20lend%20itself%20particularly%20well%20to%20this%20cooking%20method,%20but%20just%20about%20any%20fish%20will%20work,%20so%20long%20as%20it%20is%20not%20too%20small%20(500g/1%20lb.%20is%20a%20kind%20of%20minimum)%20and%20is%20left%20whole.%20Fillets%20will%20not%20work,%20since%20the%20skin%20acts%20as%20a%20barrier%20against%20the%20salt%20and%20the%20bones%20add%20flavor%20and%20help%20retain%20the%20fish's%20natural%20moisture.%20In%20fact,%20many%20recipes%20call%20for%20leaving%20the%20scales%20on%20the%20fish%20as%20well%20for%20added%20protection.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20salt?%20Sea%20salt%20is%20best%E2%80%94not%20the%20very%20expensive%20finishing%20salts,%20but%20bult%20sea%20salt%20that%20can%20be%20had%20at%20reasonable%20prices.%20But%20kosher%20salt%20also%20works%20fine.%20Finely%20grained%20table%20salt%20does%20not%20work%E2%80%94its%20fine%20grain%20would%20allow%20the%20saltiness%20to%20penetrate%20the%20fish%20and%20render%20it%20inedible.%20And%20a%20lot%20of%20table%20salt%20has%20chemical%20additives%20so%20it%20won't%20clump%20together,%20but%20that%20is%20exactly%20what%20you%20want%20it%20to%20do%20for%20this%20dish.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20garnish,%20as%20far%20as%20I'm%20concerned,%20should%20be%20as%20simple%20as%20possible,%20so%20as%20not%20to%20distract%20too%20much%20from%20the%20pure%20flavor%20of%20the%20fish.%20But%20some%20people%20do%20like%20to%20serve%20this%20dish%20with%20a%20kind%20of%20salsa%20verde%E2%80%94which%20strikes%20me%20as%20gilding%20the%20proverbial%20lily,%20but%20to%20each%20his%20(or%20her)%20own%20as%20they%20say...%3C/p%3E){kind=link}