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Baccalà mantecato
by
Frank Fariello
Текущий рейтинг: 5.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDirections%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECut%20the%20salt%20cod%20into%20manageable%20pieces%20and%20place%20them%20in%20a%20saucepan.%20Cover%20with%20water%20and%20bring%20to%20a%20gentle%20simmer.%20Add%20a%20small%20pinch%20of%20salt,%20a%20slice%20or%20two%20of%20lemon%20and%20a%20bay%20leaf.%20Continue%20to%20simmer%20for%2020%20minutes,%20until%20tender%20but%20not%20yet%20falling%20apart.%20When%20done,%20transfer%20the%20pieces%20of%20salt%20cod%20to%20a%20large%20bowl%20with%20a%20slotted%20spoon.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBaccal%C3%A0%20mantecato%20should%20be%20served%20at%20room%20temperature,%20typically%20on%20top%20of%20crostini%20di%20polenta%20as%20shown%20in%20the%20picture%20above.%20In%20Venice,%20polenta%20blanca%20or%20white%20polenta%20is%20the%20most%20autentic%20choice,%20but%20yellow%20polenta%20as%20shown%20will%20certainly%20do%20fine%20if%20you,%20like%20me,%20you%20don't%20have%20any%20of%20the%20white%20variety%20on%20hand.%20It%20can%20also%20be%20served%20with%20soft,%20hot%20polenta%20for%20a%20more%20substantial%20dish%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENOTES:%20To%20make%20crostini%20di%20polenta,%20simply%20make%20a%20batch%20of%20polenta%20using%20the%20usual%20method,%20pour%20it%20out%20on%20a%20wooden%20board%20or%20baking%20sheet,%20in%20a%20thinnish%20layer,%20to%20cool%20completely.%20It%20will%20have%20hardened%20enough%20to%20cut%20into%20rectangles%20or%20square%20pieces.%20Grill%20or%20griddle%20your%20crostini%20on%20each%20side%20until%20lightly%20spottled.%20These%20crostini%20have%20many%20other%20uses%E2%80%94they%20are%20perfectly%20delicious%20slathered%20with%20gorgonzola%20cheese,%20for%20example.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIf%20you%20are%20being%20a%20bit%20lazy,%20you%20can%E2%80%94if%20you%20must%E2%80%94blend%20the%20salt%20cod%20in%20a%20food%20processor,%20%20drizzling%20the%20olive%20oil%20through%20the%20spout%20as%20you%20use%20the%20pulse%20function%20to%20avoid%20overblending.%20Of%20course,%20this%20method%20does%20not%20produce%20a%20dish%20with%20quite%20as%20much%20character%20but%20it%20will%20certainly%20save%20you%20some%20effort.%20What%20you%20should%20avoid,%20however,%20is%20using%20a%20blender,%20which%20will%20pur%C3%A9e%20the%20fish%20rather%20than%20producing%20the%20typically%20'rough'%20texture%20that%20characterizes%20the%20dish.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20recipe%20given%20here%20is%20from%20the%20Dogale%20Confraternita%20del%20Baccal%C3%A0%20Mantecato,%20one%20of%20the%20many%20confraternita%20or%20associations%20(literally%20'brotherhoods')%20in%20Italy%20charged%20as%20guardians%20of%20the%20most%20significant%20traditional%20local%20dishes.%20This%20one%20is,%20of%20course,%20based%20in%20Venice.%20The%20original%20recipe%20calls%20for%20stoccafisso,%20or%20stockfish,%20which%20is%20another%20form%20of%20preserved%20codfish,%20wind-dried%20rather%20than%20salt-cured%20and%20so%20much%20harder.%20It%20requires%20several%20days%20of%20soaking.%20It%20is%20a%20rarity%20in%20the%20US,%20but%20salt%20cod%20is%20a%20perfectly%20acceptable%20substitute,%20in%20my%20humble%20opinion.%20The%20original%20recipe%20does%20not%20call%20for%20garlic,%20but%20most%20recipes%20(even%20Italian%20ones)%20will%20include%20it%20these%20days.%20For%20a%20more%20assertive%20flavor,%20some%20recipes%20call%20for%20a%20fillet%20or%20two%20of%20anchovy.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMany%20recipes%20you%20will%20find,%20perhaps%20most,%20call%20for%20a%20mixture%20of%20milk%20and%20oil,%20often%20in%20a%2050:50%20ratio%20but%20sometimes%20mostly%20milk%20(or%20even%20cream)%20and%20only%20a%20bit%20of%20olive%20oil.%20%20I%20have%20read%E2%80%94though%20I%20can't%20find%20the%20source%20now%20for%20the%20life%20of%20me%E2%80%94that%20the%20all-oil%20version%20is%20typical%20of%20Venice%20itself,%20while%20the%20milk%20and%20oil%20version%20comes%20from%20the%20inland%20areas%20around%20Vicenza.%20In%20the%20old%20days,%20olive%20oil%20was%20probitively%20expensive%20outside%20areas%20where%20olive%20tree%20grew,%20which%20meant%20most%20of%20northern%20Italy%20outside%20Liguria.%20Venice,%20itself,%20however,%20was%20lucky%20enough%20to%20have%20olive%20oil%20production%20nearby,%20where%20a%20micro-climate%20allowed%20for%20it.%20I%20now%20begin%20to%20doubt%20this%20explanation,%20however,%20as%20%20its%20seems%20that%20there%20is%20olive%20oil%20production%20in%20several%20areas%20in%20the%20Veneto%20(something%20I%20never%20knew%20until%20I%20looked%20into%20it)%20including%20around%20Vicenza.%20In%20fact,%20olive%20oil%20from%20the%20Veneto%20has%20its%20own%20DOP%20designation.%20In%20any%20event,%20the%20oil%20you%20use%20should%20not%20be%20too%20fruity.%20A%20lighter%20Ligurian%20or%20Proven%C3%A7ale%20olive%20oil%20(assuming%20you%20don't%20have%20access%20to%20the%20local%20variety!)%20would%20probably%20be%20the%20best%20choices.%20Avoid%20those%20fruity%20Puglian%20or%20Sicilian%20oils%20which,%20as%20wonderful%20as%20they%20are,%20would%20be%20too%20'heavy'%20for%20this%20dish.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}