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12.09.12: appetizer (roasted bone marrow with caramelized onions, from Hawksmoor at Home)
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Текущий рейтинг: 4.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERoasted%20Bone%20Marrow%20with%20Caramelized%20Onions%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E[Editor's%20note:%20it%20should%20go%20without%20saying%20that%20what%20happened%20in%20Newtown,%20CT,%20this%20past%20Friday%20was%20deplorable,%20horrific,%20abominable,%20heinous,%20and%20many%20more%20synonyms%20that%20could%20be%20employed%20to%20describe%20it%20as%20such.%20I%20hesitated%20on%20whether%20I%20should%20mention%20anything%20at%20all%20on%20the%20subject%20as%20this%20doesn't%20feel%20like%20the%20appropriate%20forum,%20but%20then%20my%20friends%20at%20Saugatuck%20Grain%20and%20Grape%20announced%20that%20they%20would%20donate%2010%25%20of%20their%20sales%20from%20their%20Bubbles,%20Bubbles%20and%20More%20Bubbles%20event%20to%20The%20Sandy%20Hook%20School%20Support%20Fund,%20so%20if%20you're%20in%20the%20Westport,%20CT%20area%20on%20Saturday%20the%2022nd%20between%203%20and%206PM,%20stop%20on%20by%20and%20enjoy%20some%20bubbles%20while%20giving%20back%20to%20a%20worthy%20cause.%20If%20you're%20like%20me%20and%20will%20be%20traveling,%20their%20phone%20orders%20will%20also%20count%20towards%20their%20final%20donation%20and%20they%20offer%20free%20delivery%20(but%20I%20would%20inquire%20within%20on%20specifics,%20of%20course).%20They%20haven't%20asked%20me%20to%20publicize%20this,%20but%20I%20thought%20it%20had%20a%20nice%20sentiment:%20a%20small%20business%20toasting%20its%20customers%20while%20wanting%20to%20give%20back%20to%20the%20greater%20community%20during%20a%20time%20of%20intense%20sorrow.%20Full%20explanation%20of%20the%20photograph%20above%20after%20the%20jump.]%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%E2%80%99m%20pretty%20sure%20I%20disgusted%20at%20least%20half%20of%20the%20people%20I%20worked%20with%20when%20I%20mentioned%20this%20dish%20offhand%20one%20afternoon%20a%20few%20days%20ago.%20To%20the%20uninitiated,%20of%20course%20it%20sounds%E2%80%A6unappetizing:%20roasting%20a%20bone%20to%20get%20at%20what%20lies%20in%20the%20middle?%20Why%20would%20anyone%20actually%20choose%20to%20do%20such%20a%20thing,%20the%20presence%20of%20caramelized%20onions%20notwithstanding?%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20delights%20of%20eating%20bone%20marrow,%20as%20introduced%20in%20Hawksmoor%20at%20Home%20from%20their%20review%20in%20the%20Times%20can%20provide%20some%20insight:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETwo%20great%20canoes%20of%20split%20front%20cow%20leg%20full%20of%20marrow,%20roasted%20in%20the%20%E2%80%9Cshell%E2%80%9D%20with%20onions,%20and%20just%20as%20sweet%20and%20rich%20and%20fatty%20as,%20I%20don%E2%80%99t%20know,%20slow-poached%20toddlers%20and%20shallots%20in%20ghee.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20mean,%20how%20can%20you%20not%20be%20enticed%20by%20such%20a%20notion*?%20To%20be%20honest,%20working%20with%20bone%20marrow%20has%20been%20kind%20of%20a%20pipe%20dream%20since%20the%20quasi-failure%20of%20using%20it%20in%20making%20steak%20sauce%20a%20few%20years%20ago,%20and%20this%20recipe%20therefore%20jumped%20out%20at%20me%20when%20I%20started%20Post-It-ing%20recipes%20in%20the%20Hawksmoor%20at%20Home%20cookbook.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20sheer%20simplicity%20of%20it%20appealed%20to%20me%20at%20once:%20once%20the%20onerous%20work%20of%20caramelizing%20onions%20was%20done,%20all%20that%20was%20left%20was%20roasting%20the%20bones%20in%20the%20oven%20for%20a%20while%20until%20they%20were%20soft,%20and%20then%20if%20you%20could%20shove%20them%20under%20the%20broiler%20for%20a%20few%20minutes%20to%20singe%20the%20tops,%20the%20spread%20the%20whole%20fatty,%20onion-y%20gobs%20onto%20slices%20of%20bread%20and%20partake%20in%20the%20most%20divine%20bread%20course%20this%20side%20of%20roasted%20garlic%20with%20rosemary.%20It%E2%80%99s%20a%20bit%20bombastic%20to%20expect%20people%20to%20simply%20accept%20this%20as%20an%20alternative%20to%20the%20bread%20basket,%20but%20the%20onions%20do%20serve%20as%20a%20sort%20of%20bridge%20and%20when%20I%20first%20spread%20the%20marrow%20over%20the%20bread,%20I%20finally%20got%20the%20appeal:%20this%20is%20a%20non-dairy%20butter%20turned%20up%20to%20eleven.%20It%E2%80%99s%20rich%20and%20gelatinous%20and%20so%20savory,%20bordering%20on%20the%20bombastic.%20It%E2%80%99s%20not%20something%20you%20can%20eat%20every%20day%20or%20even%20with%20any%20regularity,%20honestly,%20but%20at%20the%20same%20time%20it%E2%80%99s%20inexpensive%20enough%20to%20try%20if%20you%20want%20to%20surprise%20your%20guests%20with%20something%20indulgent%20yet%20frugal.%20And%20if%20you%20really%20want%20to%20surprise%20them%20and%20not%20completely%20gross%20them%20out%E2%80%93scoop%20out%20the%20marrow%20and%20the%20onions%20and%20serve%20as%20a%20dip:%20they%20won%E2%80%99t%20be%20any%20the%20wiser,%20I%20assure%20you.**%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIn%20the%20meantime,%20I%20need%20to%20go%20to%20the%20brick-and-mortar%20Hawksmoor%20post-haste,%20because%20of%20reasons,%20and%20I%20think%20the%20next%20time%20I%20have%20this%20I%20should%20be%20enjoying%20some%20bubbles%20while%20I%20do%20so%20because%20I%20think%20that%20effervescence%20would%20cut%20the%20fat%20quite%20nicely,%20don%E2%80%99t%20you%20think?%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBroiled%20Bone%20Marrow,%20Hawksmoor-Style%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eadapted%20from%20Hawksmoor%20at%20Home%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E2%20marrow%20bones,%20split%20in%20half%20lengthwise%20by%20your%20butcher%20(Seriously:%20either%20ask%20your%20butcher%20for%20two%20long%20marrow%20bones%20split%20in%20half%20or%20grab%20some%20from%20the%20meat%20case%20and%20bring%20it%20to%20the%20butcher%20to%20do%20it%20for%20you.%20If%20they%20say%20no,%20never%20shop%20at%20that%20store%20again.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECaramelize%20the%20onions:%20take%20a%2012%E2%80%B3%20skillet%20and%20heat%20the%20olive%20oil,%20add%20the%20onions,%20and%20then%20reducing%20the%20heat%20to%20low,%20cook%20for%20an%20hour%20until%20they%20are%20brown%20and%20caramelized%20and%20delicious.%20If%20they%20get%20a%20little%20singed,%20that%E2%80%99s%20OK.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERoast%20the%20beef%20bones:%20Heat%20the%20oven%20to%20400%20degrees,%20and%20place%20the%20bones%20on%20a%20baking%20sheet%20lined%20with%20foil.%20Roast%20until%20the%20marrow%20becomes%20soft%E2%80%936-8%20minutes%20on%20a%20small%20bone,%20and%2010-12%20on%20a%20larger%20one.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFinal%20assembly:%20add%20onions%20to%20the%20bones,%20and%20then%20broil%20for%20a%20few%20minutes%20if%20desired%20or%20serve%20immediately%20as%20we%20do,%20garnished%20with%20some%20sea%20salt.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E*The%20answer%20to%20that%20question%20is,%20sadly,%20many%20people.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E**Seriously,%20this%20might%20be%20the%20ideal%20way%20to%20serve%20those%20who%20may%20love%20this%20dish%20but%20may%20be%20off-put%20by%20the%20bone-in%20presentation.%20Just%20make%20a%20note%20that%20it%20is%20by%20no%20means%20vegan/vegetarian%20even%20if%20it%20is%20dairy-free/looks%20like%20regular%20onion%20dip.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}