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07.09.11: home-curing salmon (Copper River sockeye gravlax with goat cheese over a bagel)
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECopper%20River%20Sockeye%20Gravlax%20with%20Goat%20Cheese%20on%20a%20a%20Pumpernickel%20Bagel%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMuch%20like%20any%20supermarket%20around%20the%20country,%20ordering%20anything%20from%20the%20deli%20department%20at%20Fairway%20can%20require%20a%20wait%20of%20some%20duration%20on%20the%20weekends,%20and%20you%20just%20have%20to%20roll%20with%20the%20punches%20and%20try%20not%20to%20shoot%20too%20many%20death%20glares%20at%20the%20hapless%20dad%20ordering%20half%20the%20case%E2%80%99s%20contents%20a%20quarter%20pound%20at%20a%20time.%20Being%20a%20New%20York%20supermarket,%20though,%20Fairway%20also%20has%20a%20smoked%20fish%20counter%20right%20next%20to%20the%20deli%20where%20you%20don%E2%80%99t%20have%20to%20take%20a%20number%20and%20usually%20it%E2%80%99s%20a%20very%20simple%20in-and-out%20process%E2%80%A6until%20you%20get%20stuck%20behind%20the%20mom%20ordering%20two%20pounds%20of%20smoked%20salmon%20for%20her%20brunch%20that%20day,%20and%20they%20don%E2%80%99t%20bring%20in%20another%20person%20to%20help%20alleviate%20the%20growing%20line%20behind%20her%20as%20the%20slicer%20stands%20there%20methodically%20making%20her%20way%20through%20the%20enormous%20salmon%20fillet%20(and%20then%20another%20fillet%20because%20one%20was%20not%20enough).%20I%20guess%20it%20was%20to%20be%20expected%E2%80%93it%20was%20Saturday%20morning%20on%20the%20Upper%20West%20Side,%20after%20all%E2%80%93but%20when%20you%20only%20need%20someone%20to%20spoon%20some%20alici%20into%20a%20plastic%20dish%20and%20hand%20it%20over%20to%20you,%20your%20patience%20wears%20ever%20thinner%20as%20each%20expertly-cut%20slice%20of%20pink%20fish%20is%20added%20to%20the%20pile.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20mom%20turned%20to%20us%20with%20an%20apologetic%20smile%20on%20her%20face%E2%80%93at%20least%20she%20waited%20with%20us,%20I%20suppose%E2%80%93and%20remarked%20that%20maybe%20she%20should%20have%20just%20gotten%20some%20pizzas%20or%20sandwiches%20after%20all.%20I%20silently%20grumbled%20that%20Fairway%20has%20a%20catering%20office%20so%20she%20could%20have%20at%20least%20called%20ahead,%20but%20by%20then%20it%20was%20a%20%20cow%E2%80%99s%20opinion%20so%20it%20didn%E2%80%99t%20matter%20either%20way.%20(Incidentally,%20one%20way%20I%20entertain%20myself%20while%20waiting%20for%20such%20things%20is%20mentally%20flipping%20through%20my%20internal%20encyclopedia%20of%20pop-culture%20references.%20That%20leads%20me%20to%20giggle%20for%20no%20reason,%20but%20at%20least%20that%20%E2%80%98s%20better%20than%20giving%20strangers%20the%20stink-eye,%20right?)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThat%20particular%20shopping%20trip%20came%20to%20mind%20when%20I%20was%20slicing%20through%20our%20little%20piece%20of%20gravlax%20last%20week,%20as%20I%20was%20only%20trying%20to%20slice%20enough%20to%20top%20half%20a%20bagel%20each%20for%20Michael%20and%20I%20as%20a%20mid-afternoon%20snack.%20Getting%20those%20gorgeous%20slices%20is%20not%20nearly%20as%20easy%20as%20it%20looks%E2%80%93no%20wonder%20the%20pros%20slice%20at%20the%20pace%20they%20do.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECopper%20River%20Sockeye%20Gravlax%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPerhaps%20I%20should%20backtrack%20a%20bit%E2%80%93so%20at%20the%20beginning%20of%20the%20month%20the%20kind%20folks%20at%20Copper%20River%20sent%20us%20some%20Sockeye%20salmon%20to%20play%20with,%20and%20so%20Michael%20and%20I%20wanted%20to%20try%20out%20a%20few%20new%20(to%20us)%20preparation%20methods.%20He%20took%20half%20of%20a%20fillet%20to%20try%20his%20hand%20at%20hot%20smoking%20and%20I%20took%20mine%20to%20turn%20into%20gravlax.%20While%20his%20first%20foray%20into%20fish%20smoking%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20entirely%20successful%20(the%20fillet%20got%20cooked%20instead%20of%20simply%20smoked,%20but%20we%20have%20another%20fillet%20in%20the%20freezer%20to%20try%20it%20again),%20my%20experiment%20worked%20kind%20of%20beautifully.%20My%20recipe%20originally%20came%20from%20the%20New%20York%20Times%20but%20I%20got%20a%20little%20%E2%80%9Ccreative%E2%80%9D%20in%20that%20I%20used%20a%20lot%20more%20pepper%20than%20the%20recipe%20called%20for,%20and%20no%20fennel%20or%20dill%20whatsoever.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EGravlax%20cure...with%20a%20lot%20of%20peppercorns.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhoops.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFortunately%20our%20friend%20Diana%20inadvertently%20reassured%20my%20worries%20when%20she%20told%20me%20on%20Facebook%20that%20gravlax%20could%20basically%20be%20made%20with%20anything%20so%20long%20as%20salt%20and%20sugar%20were%20both%20used.%20Those,%20thankfully,%20I%20used%20in%20the%20correct%20proportions%20and%20while%20the%20fish%20had%20some%20spice%20it%20was%20not%20overwhelming%20(the%20tarragon%20I%20thought%20was%20more%20assertive).%20I%20wish%20I%20had%20remembered%20the%20fennel,%20but%20at%20the%20same%20time%20I%20wonder%20if%20the%20fish%20would%20have%20too%20much%20of%20an%20anise%20taste%20even%20for%20a%20licorice-lover%20like%20me.%20And%20my%20love%20of%20kosher%20dill%20pickles%20notwithstanding,%20but%20I%E2%80%99m%20not%20much%20of%20a%20dill%20person%20aft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