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01.22.11: dinner (Roman-style rigatoni with pancetta, pecorino and red onion)
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Текущий рейтинг: 4.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERigatoni%20with%20Pancetta,%20Red%20Onion%20and%20Pecorino%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERome%20is%20on%20my%20list%20of%20places%20to%20visit%20sooner%20than%20later%20for%20many%20reasons%20(but%20then%20again%20the%20same%20could%20be%20said%20for%20Barcelona,%20Madrid,%20and%20San%20Juan),%20in%20part%20because%20I%20have%20this%20recurring%20wistful%20yearning%20to%20sit%20in%20a%20charming%20cafe,%20preferably%20outside%20in%20some%20piazza%20and%20have%20the%20perfect%20plate%20of%20any%20of%20the%20four%20basic%20Roman%20pasta%20dishes:%20alla%20gricia,%20amatriciana,%20carbornara%20or%20cacio%20e%20pepe.%20I%20credit%20this%20to%20too%20many%20viewings%20of%20The%20Talented%20Mr.%20Ripley%20and%20the%20season%203%20episode%20of%20Mad%20Men%20that%20finds%20Don%20and%20Betty%20spending%20a%20sexy%20night%20in%20Rome.%20As%20much%20as%20I%E2%80%99d%20like%20to%20give%20my%20passport%20a%20workout%20and%20go%20to%20all%20of%20those%20places%20whenever%20I%20want%20to%E2%80%93those%20times%20often%20being%20when%20I%E2%80%99m%20in%20the%20midst%20of%20my%20commute%20and%20see%20ads%20for%20those%20destinations%20all%20over%20buses,%20taxis%20and%20trains%E2%80%93real%20life%20doesn%E2%80%99t%20always%20permit%20those%20whims,%20so%20I%20content%20myself%20with%20a%20nice%20plate%20or%20bowl%20of%20food%20that%20can%20at%20least%20take%20me%20there%20in%20my%20imagination.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20credit%20Gina%20de%20Palma%20for%20helping%20me%20appreciate%20the%20nuances%20in%20making%20basic%20Roman%20pasta%20dishes,%20thanks%20to%20her%20step-by-step%20tutorial%20on%20Serious%20Eats%20some%20time%20ago%20that%20walks%20you%20through%20the%20precise%20cooking%20method%20of%20pasta%20alla%20gricia.%20It%E2%80%99s%20a%20delicate%20dance%20of%20a%20dish,%20and%20we%20followed%20her%20instructions%20to%20the%20letter,%20even%20to%20the%20point%20of%20pulling%20out%20the%20scale%20and%20measuring%20the%20cheese%20and%20pasta%20based%20on%20the%20amount%20of%20guanciale%20we%20had%20at%20our%20disposal.%20It%20was%20an%20exercise%20in%20precision,%20to%20be%20sure,%20but%20it%20was%20useful%20in%20understanding%20the%20basics%20of%20Roman%20pasta-cooking%20because%20only%20when%20the%20fundamentals%20are%20strong%20can%20experimentation%20really%20take%20place.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESauteeing%20the%20pancetta%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhen%20I%20saw%20a%20riff%20on%20the%20classic%20when%20first%20flipping%20through%20our%20Rome%20cookbook%20that%20called%20for%20some%20red%20onion,%20sugar%20and%20a%20little%20white%20wine%20vinegar%20I%20was%20intrigued,%20and%20when%20I%20showed%20it%20to%20Michael%20on%20a%20sunny,%20if%20cold%20Saturday%20afternoon%20a%20few%20weeks%20ago%20he%20joined%20me%20in%20my%20enthusiasm.%20We%20thought%20we%E2%80%99d%20be%20making%20this%20with%20guanciale%20since%20we%20knew%20that%20Fairway%20stocked%20it,%20but%20alas%E2%80%93the%2074th%20St.%20store%20was%20out%20of%20stock%20and%20we%20were%20far%20to%20north%20to%20even%20think%20of%20hitting%20up%20Eataly,%20so%20I%20went%20with%20the%20pancetta%20that%20looked%20the%20most%20appealing%20instead.%20I%20knew%20it%20would%20make%20the%20dish%20a%20little%20heavier%20as%20pancetta%20is%20much%20more%20robust%20in%20flavor%20compared%20to%20guanciale,%20but%20then%20I%20knew%20that%20we%20wouldn%E2%80%99t%20have%20to%20treat%20it%20quite%20as%20delicately%20as%20we%20would%20the%20hog%20jowl,%20and%20it%20paired%20nicely%20with%20the%20sweet,%20slightly%20acidic%20onions.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMy%20favorite%20aspect%20of%20this%20approach%20to%20making%20pasta%20is%20that%20since%20you%E2%80%99re%20not%20making%20a%20sauce%20it%20doesn%E2%80%99t%20take%20much%20time%20to%20bring%20the%20dish%20together%E2%80%93most%20of%20the%20cooking%20can%20be%20done%20as%20the%20water%20is%20brought%20to%20a%20boil%20and%20the%20pasta%20cooks%20(well,%20as%20long%20as%20you%E2%80%99re%20cooking%20something%20like%20rigatoni%20rather%20than%20capellini,%20of%20course)%20and%20still%20have%20time%20to%20bring%20together%20a%20simple%20salad%20to%20lessen%20the%20guilt%20of%20enjoying%20so%20much%20bacon.%20As%20much%20as%20I%20like%20to%20sing%20the%20praises%20of%20meals%20that%20take%20hours%20to%20come%20together,%20it%20is%20important%20to%20have%20a%20nice%20battery%20of%20recipes%20that%20are%20easy%20to%20make%20after%20commuting%20for%20far%20too%20long%20and%20still%20have%20dinner%20on%20the%20table%20by%207:30ish.%20If%20they%20also%20happen%20to%20help%20you%20fancy%20yourself%20in%20Rome%20(or%20Barcelona,%20or%20Madrid,%20or%20on%20the%20beach)%20while%20you%20eat%20it,%20so%20much%20the%20better.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EEspecially%20if%20it%E2%80%99s%207:30%20on%20a%20dreary%20Tuesday%20evening.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERigaoni%20with%20Pancetta%20and%20Red%20Onion%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eadapted%20from%20Rome%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eserves%204%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBring%20two%20quarts%20of%20water%20to%20a%20boil,%20keeping%20covered%20to%20not%20lose%20too%20much%20water.%20Once%20you%E2%80%99ve%20gott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