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FoodTrek: Gathering of Flavors at Kaisho
by
Denise Sakaki
Текущий рейтинг: 4.0
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,%20and%20their%20spicy%20Thai%20dipping%20sauce,%20which%20is%20like%20a%20sweet/hot%20Sriracha,%20thin%20and%20easy%20to%20pour.%20Delicious%20on%20their%20own,%20just%20as%20tasty%20combined%20with%20everything%20on%20the%20platter.%20I%20want%20to%20call%20the%20kimchee%20waffles%20Ed%20Norton%20waffles,%20because%20you%20think%20they're%20just%20an%20understated%20support%20role%20in%20the%20dish,%20but%20they%20become%20a%20surprising%20show-stealer,%20even%20against%20the%20chicken.%20They%20mix%20kimchee%20pepper%20seasoning%20into%20the%20waffle%20batter,%20making%20it%20a%20noticeable%20pumpkin%20orange,%20and%20you%20see%20the%20confetti%20flecks%20in%20the%20crumb.%20Topped%20with%20a%20hefty%20smear%20of%20their%20coconut%20butter,%20it's%20a%20great%20balance%20of%20fragrant%20sweetness,%20Korean%20pepper%20spice,%20all%20soaked%20into%20a%20bready%20waffle.%20Drizzled%20with%20the%20five%20spice%20maple%20syrup,%20I%20could%20just%20eat%20a%20plate%20of%20that%20and%20forsake%20Belgian%20waffles%20with%20strawberries%20and%20whipped%20cream%20forever.Godzilla-sized%20smoked%20brisket%20gyoza%20-%20tradition%20amplified!%20-%20Photos%20by%20Wasabi%20PrimeIt's%20not%20all%20eye-catching,%20wild%20fusion%20dishes,%20Kaisho%20has%20traditional-style%20foods,%20but%20with%20their%20own%20take.%20Their%20Smoked%20Brisket%20and%20Kimchee%20Gyoza%20uses%20classic%20Japanese%20dumpling%20preparation,%20but%20they're%20filled%20with%20big%20chunks%20of%20smoked%20brisket%20and%20pickled%20cabbage.%20And%20they're%20HUGE.%20I%20should%20have%20put%20something%20in%20the%20photo%20to%20show%20scale,%20like%20a%20tennis%20ball.%20The%20three%20gyoza%20from%20the%20Zensai/Small%20Plates%20menu%20is%20a%20meal%20on%20its%20own.%20Hearty,%20smoky,%20and%20almost%20like%20eating%20little%20bundles%20of%20a%20spicy%20brisket%20sandwich,%20since%20the%20texture%20is%20so%20hefty,%20with%20a%20good%20chew.%20Seasonal%20albacore,%20dressed%20in%20springtime%20-%20Photo%20by%20Wasabi%20PrimeI'm%20showing%20a%20lot%20of%20heavier%20dishes,%20but%20Kaisho%20has%20light,%20seasonal%20fare.%20The%20seafood%20options%20are%20in%20constant%20rotation,%20based%20on%20availability.%20Spring%20is%20offering%20delicacies%20like%20albacore%20tuna,%20which%20has%20such%20a%20light,%20delicate%20flavor,%20which%20goes%20nicely%20with%20the%20fresh%20spice%20of%20a%20cucumber%20sambal%20and%20a%20creamy%20chili%20aioli,%20with%20a%20dressing%20of%20smoky%20bacon%20to%20finish.%20Simple,%20yet%20balanced%20with%20fresh%20and%20pickled%20vegetables,%20but%20never%20overwhelming%20the%20flavor%20of%20the%20fish.%20It's%20an%20item%20on%20their%20Restaurant%20Week%20menu,%20which%20you%20still%20have%20time%20to%20try%20(the%20last%20week%20is%20April%2013-17),%20but%20it's%20also%20still%20available%20on%20their%20regular%20spring%20menu,%20for%20at%20least%20a%20little%20bit%20longer.%20I%20definitely%20recommend%20trying%20the%20tuna%20-%20not%20overly%20spicy,%20just%20a%20pleasant%20celebration%20of%20seasonal%20ingredients.Raise%20a%20glass,%20everybody%20-%20Photos%20by%20Wasabi%20PrimeOf%20course%20I%20tried%20a%20cocktail%20or%20two.%20Or%20three.%20Maybe%20four.%20I%20first%20came%20into%20Kaisho%20a%20little%20while%20back%20for%20a%20quick%20drink%20and%20a%20bite%20before%20a%20movie%20--%20I%20really%20liked%20the%20small%20happy%20hour%20plates,%20%20like%20the%20smoked%20pork%20bun%20and%20the%20smoked%20fish%20onigiri%20(rice%20ball),%20and%20I%20had%20a%20clean,%20lightly%20rice-sweet%20Saketini%20to%20wash%20it%20down.%20Satisfying,%20delicious%20and%20enough%20to%20keep%20me%20from%20the%20temptation%20of%20fake%20buttered%20popcorn,%20FTW.%20This%20later%20visit%20had%20me%20exploring%20their%20cocktail%20menu%20more%20in-depth,%20and%20their%20signature%20drinks%20have%20a%20full%20spectrum%20of%20flavor%20profiles%20for%20people%20who%20prefer%20sweet%20vs%20not-sweet%20drinks.%20The%20overall%20focus%20is%20fresh%20flavors%20like%20cucumber,%20lychee,%20and%20lime,%20with%20Asian%20herbs%20like%20lemongrass%20and%20Thai%20basil,%20which%20all%20work%20really%20well%20in%20drinks.%20I'm%20more%20of%20a%20less-sweet%20cocktail%20drinker,%20so%20their%20very%20green%20Pear%20and%20Cucumber%20Martini%20was%20a%20nice,%20clean%20drink%20to%20go%20with%20the%20stronger-flavored%20foods,%20especially%20the%20chicken%20and%20waffles.%20Sweeter%20drinks%20like%20their%20Thai%20Basil%20Mojito%20and%20cranberry/sweet%20lychee%20Cherry%20Blossom%20would%20fare%20better%20with%20the%20albacore%20or%20their%20oysters%20--%20they%20do%20oyster%20specials%20on%20Thursday%20nights.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOverall,%20I%20think%20Kaisho%20is%20working%20in%20a%20good%20direction%20on%20removing%20the%20gimmick%20factor%20of%20%22fusion%20cuisine,%22%20which%20has%20run%20rampant%20for%20many%20years.%20They're%20trying%20to%20get%20palates%20already%20familiar%20with%20traditional%20dishes,%20excited%20about%20something%20different,%20yet%20balanced.%20I%20don't%20think%20of%20this%20as%20simply%20%22Asian%20fusion,%22%20I%20think%20it's%20something%20distinctly%20American,%20in%20the%20sense%20that%20it's%20adaptive%20cuisine.%20The%20same%20way%20we%20hold%20spaghetti%20and%20meatballs%20dearly%20to%20our%20hearts,%20yet%20it's%20completely%20alien%20to%20Italians,%20the%20mixing%20of%20flavors%20is%20an%20ongoing%20expression%20of%20cultural%20integration.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}