Рецепт Two recipes from one great roast: Porchetta and Cannellini Vegetable Soup
Jill Clark, Redhead and Cook My
friend Jill Clark introduced me to Melissa Clark’s recipe for “Counterfeit
Porchetta” at the dinner party she and her husband Steve threw right before
Christmas. Like Jill, I’d seen the
recipe in the New York Times the week before and, like Jill, I was
intrigued. Melissa Clark explained that
in Italy, Porchetta is a spit-roasted, de-boned and stuffed baby pig seasoned
with fennel, garlic, rosemary and lemon. (Confession: I wasn’t a Porchetta virgin. I’d made a mean counterfeit Porchetta before (see http://www.chewingthefat.us.com/2010/07/porchetta-slow-roasted-pork-shoulder.html)Melissa Clark, Redhead and
Cook But the version I had at Jill and Steven’s
had me hooked from bite one. It is
incredibly flavorful and juicy. The spicy, salty crust just begs the cook to
pick at it before serving. Pork Shoulder is used
here. You’d be hard-pressed to find any
protein as economical as Pork Shoulder. The one I special-ordered came in at
about $4.00 a lb. It’s terribly easy to cook mostly because
it’s not fat-free by any means. The
amber crust keeps the meat underneath juicy and tender. The platter of meat that emerged from our
kitchen was soon devoured and with barely any leftovers.
But there was the bone and a couple of slices of meat. So a day or two later, I turned both into a
soup so perfect for cold weather, so ideal for using fresh and leftover
vegetables, that I’d make Porchetta again just so I could make it.
Melissa Clark's Porchetta I
am giving you Melissa Clark’s recipe verbatim because that is what Jill Clark
used. However, I’ve told you before
about www.pollenranch.com located in beautifully named Lemon Cove, California. Pollen Ranch are purveyors of
hand-collected and wild-crafted spices including Organic Fennel Pollen. This wonderful stuff suffuses Porchetta with
the intense flavor of Fennel, which is key to creating the dish's unique
flavor. I used it exclusively. Melissa
and Jill Clark opted for fennel fronds and fennel seeds for their Porchetta. They accomplished the seasoning needed here and saved a lot of money. Fennel Pollen is hardly free…(9.95 for .5 oz.).
Both Melissa and Jill had the all-essential skin cross-hatched by their
butchers. I tried to have that done but
my butcher was not so adept. Hence mine looks nothing like their neatly
scored versions. But in terms of taste
and the lovely crispy crunchy pork cracklings, both were
winners. One further note: Melissa recommends making the herb
paste the night before and leaving the coated roast in the fridge. Because I
couldn’t get my hands on the pork until the day I was going to serve it, I
started at 10 AM and served about 8 PM with no apparent loss of flavor. But I couldn’t help wonder if it would have
been even more amazing if marinated overnight. The recipe follows after my soup talk.
I love making soup. It strikes me that it’s almost impossible not
to make a good one. All it really takes
is a meaty soup bone, some homemade or store bought stock and whatever
vegetables your heart desires and you’re home.
In cold weather, I love having a big pot of soup on the stove. I love tasting it frequently, adjusting the
seasonings and the salt as I go along.
I leave it simmering for hours only turning off the stove at night and
then starting it up again in the morning.
In the case of this particular soup, essentially Pork and Beans, I made
a broth with the pork shoulder bone, then made a base with onions and carrots
and celery. The beans went in with the
broth and I added some home-canned tomatoes from last summer. As the pork broth simmered down, I put in a whole 32 oz. container of Chicken stock.
And when it was finally time to serve the soup, I added some cooked vegetables –asparagus, carrots and mushrooms that I had in the fridge. I put some baby spinach leaves in
the bottom of the soup bowls and poured over the soup. A grating of Parmesan, a couple of pieces of
crusty bread and lunch was served. And
I still have soup to keep serving for days and days of more Porchetta. Here are the recipes:
Recipe for Melissa Clark’s Porchetta
Serves 8 to 12. Active Time 4-5
hours, plus marinating at least 6 more hours.
- 1 (7- to 8-pound) bone-in, skin-on pork shoulder roast, or
- a 6- to 7-pound boneless roast, fat trimmed to 1/4-inch thickness
- ¼ cup chopped fennel fronds
- ¼ cup chopped fresh rosemary
- 2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage leaves
- 5 garlic cloves, grated or mashed to a paste
- Finely
- grated zest of 1 lemon
- 1 ½
- tablespoons kosher salt
- ¾ teaspoon red pepper flakes
- ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1.Score
skin and fat all over pork, taking care not to cut down to the meat.
2. In
a food processor or mortar and pestle, combine fennel fronds, rosemary, sage,
garlic, lemon zest, salt, fennel seed, red pepper flakes and black pepper. Pour
in oil. Pulse or mash until it forms a paste. Rub all over pork. If using a
boneless roast, tie with kitchen string at 2-inch intervals.
3. Transfer to a
large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 6 hours and
preferably overnight.
4. Remove
pork from refrigerator 1 to 2 hours before you want to cook it. Heat oven to
450 degrees. Transfer pork to a rimmed baking sheet and roast 35 minutes.
Reduce temperature to 325 degrees and cook an additional 2 hours 45 minutes to
4 hours, until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 180
degrees, which will give you sliceable, tender meat. (Bone-in roasts will take
longer than boneless ones.)
Transfer
pork to a cutting board and let rest 15 to 30 minutes before serving. Make sure
everyone gets some of the cracklings.
Recipe for Cannellini Vegetable Soup with
Porchetta
Can be
made in a hour and a half. Or take your
time and make it one day and serve it the next.
Makes lots of soup. You can vary
the ingredients to your heart’s content.
1.For
the broth, put reserved shoulder bone, half an onion, 1 carrot and 1 rib
celery, each cut in half, in a saucepan. Add cold water to cover. Heat to a
simmer; cook, 1 hour. Discard the bone and vegetables; strain the soup through
a fine mesh strainer.
1. For the soup, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a Dutch
oven; add 1 ½ onions, chopped, and 3-4 carrot, two stalks of celery, diced. Season with salt and red pepper flakes to
taste. Cook until softened.
Add 2 cups shredded or cubed pork, 2 cups cooked white
beans (or 2 cans, 19 ounces each, white beans, drained and rinsed) 2 14-oz. cans
diced tomatoes and enough of the homemade broth to cover. Let the broth cook
down then add 1 32 oz. container low sodium Chicken Stock or Broth. Cook at a low simmer until ready to
serve.
2. Add any leftover vegetables, cut
up, and heat the soup to serving temperature. Taste for seasoning.
3. Fill the bottom of soup bowls with baby spinach.
4. Pour vegetables and broth over the spinach.
Garnish with grated Parmesan Cheese and serve with oven-warmed crusty French
bread.