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Sugo di carne (Meat Sauce)
by
Frank Fariello
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Carne Guisada Con Papas (Meat And Potatoes)
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhen%20you%20mention%20Italian%20meat%20sauces,%20most%20people%20will%20immediately%20think%20of%20those%20monuments%20of%20Italian%20cooking,%20the%20rag%C3%B9%20alla%20napoletana%20and%20the%20rag%C3%B9%20alla%20bolognese,%20sauces%20that%20require%20hours%20of%20cooking%20and%20fairly%20elaborate%20preparation.%20These%20time-consuming%20rag%C3%B9%20are,%20quite%20rightly,%20reserved%20for%20special%20occasions.%20Rag%C3%B9%20alla%20napoletana%20is%20often%20called%20'Sunday%20sauce'%20among%20Italian-American%20(and%20'il%20rag%C3%B9%20della%20domenica'%20among%20Italians),%20an%20expression%20from%20back%20in%20the%20days%20when%20the%20main%20event%20of%20every%20Sunday%20was%20a%20grand,%20multi-course%20meal.%20I%20suspect%20that%20for%20most%20people,%20even%20in%20Italy,%20these%20dishes%20are%20prepared%20less%20often%20than%20that%20these%20days.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFor%20everyday%20cooking,%20however,%20here%20is%20a%20far%20simpler%20meat%20sauce%20that%20may%20not%20exactly%20be%20fast%20food,%20but%20it%20certainly%20take%20far%20less%20time%20and%20effort.%20This%20generic%20meat%20sauce%20doesn't%20have%20the%20complexity%20of%20one%20of%20those%20monumental%20sauces,%20but%20it's%20plenty%20satisfying%20nonetheless,%20All%20you%20need%20is%20some%20chopped%20meat,%20some%20canned%20tomatoes%20and%20a%20few%20aromatic%20vegetables,%20and%20about%202%20hours%20to%20spare,%20most%20of%20which%20can%20be%20spent%20away%20from%20the%20stove.%20I%20love%20to%20make%20this%20sauce%20with%20ground%20pork,which%20to%20my%20taste%20is%20more%20savory,%20but%20you%20can%20use%20ground%20beef%20as%20well,%20either%20instead%20of%20or%20in%20combination%20with%20the%20pork%E2%80%94in%20fact,%20it%20is%20far%20more%20common%20to%20do%20so.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIngredients%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDirections%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIn%20a%20large%20pot,%20preferably%20of%20terracotta%20or%20enameled%20cast%20iron,%20make%20a%20soffritto%20by%20gently%20saut%C3%A9ing%20the%20onion,%20carrot%20and%20celery%20in%20olive%20oil%20until%20the%20vegetables%20are%20very%20soft,%20taking%20care%20never%20to%20brown%20them.%20(It%20helps%20to%20add%20a%20pinch%20of%20salt,%20which%20draws%20out%20the%20vegetables'%20own%20liquids,%20as%20well%20as%20a%20spoonful%20of%20water%20from%20time%20to%20time.%20This%20both%20speeds%20up%20the%20softening%20process%20and%20helps%20avoid%20browning.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdd%20the%20ground%20pork%20(or%20beef)%20to%20the%20pot,%20breaking%20it%20up%20with%20a%20wooden%20spoon%20and%20mixing%20to%20combine%20it%20well%20with%20the%20soffritto.%20Season%20with%20salt%20and%20pepper,%20and%20let%20is%20simmer%20gently,%20stirring%20almost%20constantly,%20until%20the%20meat%20has%20lost%20its%20raw%20look.%20Then%20add%20a%20splash%20of%20red%20wine%20and%20continue%20simmering,%20until%20the%20wine%20has%20evaporated.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdd%20the%20tomatoes,%20stir%20again.%20Then%20let%20it%20simmer%20for%20at%20least%20an%20hour,%20stirring%20only%20occasionally,%20until%20the%20meat%20is%20tender%20and%20the%20sauce%20has%20thickened%20and%20developed%20a%20deep%20flavor.%20(You%20can%20let%20it%20go%20longer%20if%20you%20like%20and%20it%20will%20only%20get%20better%20the%20longer%20it%20cooks.)%20If%20the%20sauce%20gets%20too%20thick%20before%20you%20think%20it's%20done,%20then%20just%20add%20a%20bit%20of%20water%20or%20broth%20as%20needed.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENOTES:%20If%20you%20like,%20you%20can%20add%20a%20bit%20of%20tomato%20concentrate%20(aka%20tomato%20paste)%20along%20with%20the%20canned%20tomatoes.%20The%20pasta%20adds%20a%20more%20intense%20tomato%20flavor%20as%20well%20as%20acting%20as%20a%20thickening%20agent.%20But%20since%20most%20imported%20canned%20tomatoes%20in%20the%20US%20already%20come%20packed%20in%20tomato%20pur%C3%A9e,%20adding%20tomato%20paste%20is%20sort%20of%20overkill,%20at%20least%20in%20my%20book.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EYou%20can%20also%20add%20a%20few%20pieces%20of%20dried%20porcini%20(or%20other)%20mushrooms,%20soaked%20in%20water%20for%2020%20minutes%20or%20so,%20either%20to%20the%20soffritto%20or%20to%20the%20sauce%20as%20it%20simmers.%20Don't%20throw%20out%20the%20soaking%20water;%20if%20you%20use%20it%20to%20thin%20out%20the%20sauce%20as%20it%20cooks,%20it%20will%20add%20extra%20flavor.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAnd%20there%20are%20other%20variations,%20too.%20The%20most%20traditional%20recipes%20call%20for%20meat%20that%20has%20been%20finely%20chopped%20with%20a%20knife%20rather%20than%20ground;%20other%20recipes%20call%20for%20cubes%20of%20meat,%20which%20produces%20something%20akin%20to%20a%20stew.%20Some%20people%20like%20to%20add%20a%20bit%20of%20garlic%20and/or%20parsley%20to%20the%20soffritto.%20Some%20add%20a%20bay%20leaf%20or%20a%20clove%20or%20a%20bit%20of%20grated%20nutmeg%20to%20the%20sauce%20as%20it%20simmers.%20In%20Tuscany,%20they%20will%20use%20a%20red%20onion%20rather%20than%20the%20more%20common%20yellow%20onion%20found%20elsewhere.%20And%20you%20can%20use%20butter%20along%20with,%20or%20instead%20of,%20the%20olive%20oil.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20sauce%20can%20be%20used%20to%20dress%20a%20wide%20variety%20of%20dried%20or%20fresh%20pasta.%20Stubby%20dried%20pastas%20are%20wonderful%20this%20way,%20as%20are%20longer%20fresh%20pastas%20like%20tagliatelle%20or%20fettuccine.%20Spaghetti%20and%20linguine,%20on%20the%20other%20hand,%20don't%20really%20work%20that%20well%20with%20meat%20sauce,%20despite%20the%20popularity%20of%20'spaghetti%20bolognese'%20(a%20fake%20Italian%20dish%20is%20there%20ever%20was%20one).%20It%20is%20also%20a%20fine%20substitute%20for%20rag%C3%B9%20alla%20bolognese%20in%20making%20lasagne.%20But%20perhaps%20my%20favorite%20way%20of%20using%20sugo%20di%20carne,%20is%20to%20make%20a%20pasta%20al%20forno,%20which%20is%20featured%20in%20today's%20companion%20post.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}