Рецепт Pistachio and White Chocolate Cheesecake
Solomon and The Queen of Sheba
as painted by Piero della FrancescaNobody
seems to know why, but February 26th is World Pistachio Day. The day even has its own website: www.worldpistachioday.com
And, as the site points out, it’s
hard to believe that until 1976 pistachios weren't even grown in this country. The nut had been imported since
the 1800s. It was slow-growing in popularity until a man named James W.
Parkinson of Philadelphia invented Pistachio Ice Cream at which point
Pistachios took off. Now, California
alone produces 300 million pounds of Pistachios annually. The pistachio itself is an ancient nut, one
of only two nuts referenced in the bible. The second? The almond. The Queen of Sheba was said to be so mad for
pistachios that she ordered that her country’s entire crop be set
aside just for her. Was it greed or
just good sense? Pistachios are highly
nutritious and have a very long storage life. That makes them a perfect food for
travellers like the Queen who ventured from her home in what is now Yemen to
Jerusalem to meet King Solomon. From the Middle East, they were introduced to
Rome in the 1st Century AD.
Their popularity truly is worldwide.
China consumes almost twice as many pistachios as are eaten in the
US. But we’re hardly pikers: 45,000 tons
of pistachios were eaten here last year.
So let’s celebrate this remarkable nut, whose trees can bear fruit for
up to 200 years. Let’s bake a rich,
decadent cheesecake studded with pistachios over a chocolate graham crust to
celebrate World Pistachio Day.
Matt (L) and Renato (R)We’ve
featured many recipes from Baked, the bakery that got its start in Red Hook,
Brooklyn. Recently Matt Lewis and Renato
Poliafito, the brains and bakers behind Baked opened a commodious new shop in
Tribeca (279 Church St. NY NY 10013 (212) 775-0345. There, in addition to a menu of soups and
savories, you can order spectacular cakes right out of their latest book “Baked
Occasions” (Stewart Tabori Chang 2014).
Or you can, as Andrew did, make one of these glorious confections from
the duo’s excellent recipes. That’s
where this recipe for Pistachio White Chocolate Cheesecake came from. It seems that Matt’s grandmother Boreali was
the Queen of all Cheesecakes and much of what goes into this particular cake
were her cardinal rules for baking cheesecakes.
According to Matt in “Baked Occasions” 'she always added a thin layer of sour
cream to the top of her cheesecakes for two reasons. First, she liked the slight sour note. Second, she told me it was a great way to
cover up any cracks (though Grandma’s cheesecake never cracked.)’ Interestingly she never used a ‘water bath’
in her life. However, Matt invites his
bakers to ‘feel free to place a 9 x 13 inch pan filled with water in the oven
directly below the cheesecake to help prevent cracking’. Note: this is not a bain marie in which the
cake would sit in a water bath.
Andrew's version of the cake
used ground pistachios to
decorate the sour cream toppingThis
is not a thirty minute recipe by a long shot.
For one thing, you need to refrigerate the cake after you’ve baked it
for a full 8 hours. But the wait only increases the anticipation of this
seriously delicious, creamy-rich pistachio-filled cake sitting atop a Chocolate
and Pistachio cookie crust. There’s one
other secret ingredient in this cake: To make the filling look like real
pistachio ice cream, Matt recommends a little food coloring to ‘green’ up the
cake. But if you object to food color,
by all means leave it out. Your cake
will still achieve the pale green color of pistachios. Here is the recipe:
Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito’s Recipe for Pistachio White Chocolate
Cheesecake from Baked Occasions
Makes 1 nine inch Cheesecake.
Serves 16
- For the Chocolate Cookie Crust:
- 2 ½ oz. shelled pistachio nuts
- (about ½ cup)
- 12 oz. Chocolate Wafer Cookies
- 6 oz. (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter
- For the Pistachio White Chocolate
- Cream Cheese Filling:
- 5 oz. shelled pistachios (about 1
- cup)
- 4- 8 oz. packages of cream cheese,
- softened
- 1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
- 1 tbsp. all purpose flower
- 4 oz. white chocolate, melted and
cooled
Green food coloring or gel.
First make the Chocolate Cookie
Crust:
1. Preheat the oven to 325
degrees F. Using nonstick cooking spray, lighly coat both the bottom and sides
of a high-sided (2 ½ to 3 inch)
9-inch springform
pan. Line the bottom of the pan with
parchment and lightly spray the parchment.
2. Wrap the outside of the pan in foil
on the off chance that it leaks during baking.
3. In a food processor,
pulse the pistachios until finely ground, about five 5 second pulses.
4. Add the
cookies, sugar and salt and process until the ingredients are coarsely ground,
30 to 40 seconds.
5. Drizzle the melted
butter over the crumbs and pulse until the mixture has the consistency of wet
sand.
6. Transfer the crumb mixture to the
prepared pan and press it into the bottom and up the sides. Use the bottom of a flat measuring cup to
create a firm, even crust.
7. Bake the crust for 8
to 10 minutes to set. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool completely.
Now make the Pistachio
White Chocolate Cream Cheese Filling:
1. Increase the oven
temperature to 500 degrees F. and position a rack in the center of the oven.
2. In a food processor, pulse the
pistachios until finely ground, about 30 seconds. Set aside.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese, sugar and flour.
Beat on medium speed until just combined, being careful not to overbeat. Add the eggs and egg yolk, one at a time,
beating well after each addition. Add
the ground pistachios and cream and mix until incorporated.
4. Pour half the batter into a
bowl. Fold the white chocolate into the
batter in the bowl until combined. Pour
this batter over the top of the chocolate cookie crust, smooth it out and place
the pan in the refrigerator for 10 minutes. If using, add the green food
coloring, a few drops at a time, to the remaining batter and stir to
incorporate until the desired color is achieved.
5. Pour this batter over the
refrigerated white chocolate batter. Smooth the top.
6. Bake in the middle of the oven
for 10 minutes. Open the oven door for a
few seconds to let out some heat lowering the oven temperature to 350 degrees F
as you do. Close the oven door. Bake until the cheesecake is set around the
outside but still slightly wobbly in the center, 45 minutes to 1 hour, rotating
the pan every 15 minutes.
7. Remove from
the oven and spread the sour cream over the top of the cheesecake in a swirly,
decorative pattern. Return to the oven
until the sour cream browns slightly, about 5 more minutes. Turn off the heat, crack the oven door and
let the cheesecake cool completely in the oven (about 1 hour).
7. Chill the cheesecake, lightly
covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight. Loosen the sides of the crust from the pan
with an offset spatula, then remove the spring form sides and serve.
The cheesecake will keep, tightly
covered in the refrigerator for at least 3 to 4 days.