Рецепт Marcella Hazan's Abruzzi Style Lamb Pasta Sauce
Marcella Hazan just celebrated her
89th Birthday. As a salute to
this great lady, a Facebook friend of mine who has taken the time to answer
many Italian food questions for me, I wanted to celebrate too. Fortunately,
March 2013’s Food and Wine Magazine saluted its own 35th Anniversary
with “The Legends”, a collection of recipes from “the extraordinary,
epoch-defining cooks” who’ve been their contributors for the past 35
years. Julia Child, Jean-Georges Vongerichten,
Jacques Pepin, Paula Wolfert and Marcella herself all came to life on their
pages. It must have been quite a task to
decide what went in and what didn’t, especially since Ms. Hazan has had 27
recipes published in Food and Wine. The
Editors settled on just 3 recipes, all from “Marcella Cucina” (Alfred A. Knopf
1997). I settled on Pasta with
Abruzzi-Style Lamb Sauce. But don’t
think I won’t be back with “Fish in Crazy Water" sometime soon.
Victor and Marcella HazanAt
heart, Marcella Hazan is a great home cook. She’s never owned a restaurant. She is basically self-taught and in fact knew
nothing about cooking at all until she met the love of her life, Victor Hazan,
an Italian-born New Yorker who was studying in Italy. She owes her
knowledge to Italy’s great catalogue of cookbooks and her practical skills to
time spent in the kitchen. When the
couple moved to New York, she opened a cooking school in her apartment. Craig Claiborne adored her, published her
recipes in the New York Times and boosted her reputation as an authority on
Italian cooking. This recipe is
quintessential Hazan. It is simplicity itself to make and full of deep, intense
flavor. The lamb is not ground but
rather diced into ½ inch or smaller pieces.
And considering that most Italian meat sauces are all day affairs, this
one stands out because it takes all over 50 minutes to make, start to
finish. It’s an easy pasta sauce to make
on a weeknight. If you make more than
you can serve at one meal, it only gets better with time. You can use any kind of tubular
pasta here—penne, ziti, rigatoni. And what makes the sauce "Abruzzi-Style"?
The
Abruzzo region is in the center of Italy on the Adriatic Coast, on the opposite side
of Lazio, the province that is home to Rome.
Once you get away from the fishing hamlets on the coast, the region is
wild and craggy and includes one of the highest mountains in Italy: The Gran Sasso tops off at 9500 feet. There is pasture land in these
highlands. For hundreds of years,
shepherds lived in this barren landscape with their flocks of sheep for most of
the year. The lamb in this recipe shows
its Abruzzo roots but it’s also the frugal and simple peasant-food quality of
the dish that makes it Abruzzese. The
word ‘frugal’ also Il Gran Sasso
applies here: I was able to use Shoulder Lamb Chops which is
likely the least expensive lamb you can buy.
Food and Wine said you could use another cut of lamb “as long as it’s
not too lean”. This dish has robust character that’s perfect
- for one of those nights when only a bowl of pasta can satisfy. Here’s the recipe, with a minor adaptation. I
- used 2 ounces of cubed pancetta in lieu of Marcella’s finely chopped and thinly
- sliced version. Here’s the recipe:
- Recipe for Marcella Hazan’s Pasta with
- Abruzzi-Style Lamb Sauce From Food and
- Wine Magazine
- Serve 4 to 6. Prep Time
- 30 Minutes. Total Time 50 minutes.
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 ounces pancetta, finely diced
- 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary
- 1/2 pound boneless lamb, cut into very fine
- dice
- One 28-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes,
- coarsely chopped, with juices.
- 1 pound penne, ziti or rigatoni
- 1/3 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano
- cheese, plus more for serving
- Put the oil and onion in a
- large skillet and cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until
- the onion is pale gold. Add the pancetta and rosemary and cook, stirring
- occasionally, until the pancetta fat is rendered; the pancetta should remain
soft.
Add the lamb and cook until browned, 5 minutes. Season with salt and
pepper and stir. Add the wine and simmer until evaporated, 10 minutes. Add the
tomatoes and simmer gently, stirring from time to time, until the fat begins to
separate from the sauce, 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, fill a large pot
with 4 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Add 1 1/2 tablespoons of coarse
salt, cover and return to a boil.
Add the pasta to the pot
and stir rapidly with a wooden spoon. Cover and bring back to a boil. Uncover
and cook the pasta, stirring frequently, until it is al dente.
Drain the pasta and
immediately transfer it to a warmed bowl. Toss with the lamb sauce and the 1/3
cup of grated cheese. Serve at once, passing additional cheese at the table.