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Рецепт Lazy Man's Bouillabaisse and Lulu Peyraud's Quick Rouille
by Monte Mathews

Since we live in one of the great ocean fishing areas of the country, the temptation to eat the freshest seafood imaginable is an almost daily event. The fishing boats go out early from Montauk and their catch is in our fish markets later that morning. The waters abound in striped and black seabass, flounder, jumbo porgies, fluke, cod, monkfish, swordfish and bluefish. This past weekend, local monkfish, the white dense fish with a taste vaguely similar to lobster, was to be had for $9.99 lb. I call that price irresistible. And it immediately brought to mind a great Bouillabaise I once enjoyed in Provence, north of Marseilles. Bouillabaisse can be incredibly complicated to make: First of all, you need a great stock as a base for your creation. No self-respecting cook would dare serve the dish without a “Rouille”, that overwhelmingly garlic-y saffron tinged sauce. essential to the dish. And then there’s the fish itself. Any self-respecting Provencale cook could find the requisite fish—rascasse, rouget, congre and lotte. The only one readily available is the lotte which is monkfish in French. Still I was determined to use the underpinnings of the dish to make a Bouillabaisse. But I wanted one that would not restrict me to the kitchen for the bulk of the day. To the rescue came none other than The French Chef herself: Julia Child.

themselves on the beaches near Marseilles over a wood fire. The fishermen added the least marketable of

their catch to an aromatic cooking broth and served it over a piece of bread.

Interestingly, the word “Bouillabaisse” refers to the method of cooking rather

than an actual recipe. “Bouiller” (to boil) is combined with “Abaisser” to

reduce. Once you simplify down to that, I felt emboldened to make a

simple and quicker version of the dish.

I also reasoned that since most of the classic Mediterranean fishes

associated with the dish don’t swim off Long Island, my Bouillabaisse was never

going to authentically Marseillais. So I poked around and came up with a recipe

that was greeted with great oohs and ahhs from our dinner party guests. At the risk of sounding exactly like my

mother, for whom no cut was too short, I oohed and ahhed too. But mine were based on the fact that I did

not spend a day making the dish.

Lulu Peyraud and her fantastic Rose

Domaine Tempier

Instead, I leaned on a couple of pints of fish stock from Citarella, our local fine foods emporium, augmented with chicken stock, garlic, shallots, and diced tomatoes and tomato paste, and some herbs from right outside our kitchen window. On to the “Rouille” which means “rust” in French dueto its color. Now this can be very complicated involving a potatoe, egg yolks, roasting a red pepper and adding another good 30 minutes effort. Amazingly, I found a Quick Recipe in Saveur. It has an impeccable pedigree. Its creator is Lulu Peyraud, the matriarch of the winemakers responsible for one of Province’s signature wines: Domaine Tempier. If you see it on any wine list, order it. It’s like being in the south of France. Lulu Peyraud is a renowned cook for family and friends and much to my surprise, apparently shares my mother’s desire to simplify cooking into a minimal number of steps. Her “Rouille” is ridiculously easy.

Part 3 of making a Bouillabaisse is the final poaching in the enriched stock, to which you add a diced fennel bulb, a diced baking potato, more diced tomatoes, orange peel along with some chopped basil. Most Bouillabaisse recipes call for shellfish in addition to whatever fish you are putting in the pot. Initially I was going to add local mussels to the shrimp in mine. At the last minute, seeing the vast quantities of both shrimp and monkfish, I left them out. Nobody missed them. This whole dinner came together in 30 minutes flat on the stove. Then it was just a matter of swabbing some toasted baguette slices with the Rouille, dropping them in bowls and pouring the steaming Bouillabaisse over them. Garnished with some parsley and some strips of orange zest and voila! The lazy man’s Hamptons Bouillabaisse! Here is the recipe:

Recipe for Lazy Man’s Bouillabaisse with Lulu Peyraud’s Quick Rouille: Serves 6. Takes 1 ½ hrs. to make in two sessions of

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

8 shallots, coarsely chopped

5 cloves of garlic, cloves peeled and coarsely chopped

3 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped or 1 -16 Oz can of diced tomatoes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

Salt and freshly ground pepper

First, make the broth.

1.

In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and garlic

and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook over moderately high heat,

stirring, for 2 minutes.

2.

Add the fish and chicken stocks, the thyme, parsley

and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat for 45

minutes.

3.

Strain the broth and discard the solids. You should have 6 cups of

broth. If not, add either water or chicken stock. Season the broth with salt and

pepper.

For the Rouille

1.

In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add

the garlic, leek and fennel and cook

over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the potato and

cook until just tender, about 5 minutes.

Add the tomato and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes.

2.

Stir in the broth and bring to a boil. Add shrimp and fish and simmer until all of the seafood is just cooked,

about 4 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice

and basil; season with salt and pepper.

3.

Spread the baguette toasts with some of

the rouille. Place two in the bottom of each bowl.

4.

Spoon the bouillabaisse into 4 large, shallow bowls and serve with the toasts and lemon wedges. Pass the remaining rouille at the table.