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Рецепт Chewy Almond Macaroons--Gluten and Dairy Free!
by Monte Mathews

Photo Copywright: Saveur Magazine/Bonnier Publications

One

of the joys of the Internet, is the arrival, almost daily, of recipes from my

favorite Food magazines, one of which is Saveur. A few weeks ago, a recipe for

it on to Andrew and the next weekend he made a batch. They were moist, and chewy and deeply, richly

almond-y. They were also completely

gluten-free containing not even a dusting of flour. And they were also dairy-free—there’s not so much

as a smidgen of butter in them. I don’t go out of my way to zero in on

gluten-free recipes but maybe I should.

My friend Hugh informed me that he’s lost 27 lbs. since he went on a

gluten-free diet. So there are clearly

benefits for those omnivores among us with no gluten allergies at all.

I’ve lived in New York a very long time

and I’m not alone in associating Macaroons with Passover. I never thought to wonder why but these

cookies aroused my curiosity. As it

turns out, the Macaroon macaroons, having no flour or leavening, make the

perfect Pesach treat. Larousse Gastronomique gives credit for the

cookie to France (Bien Sur!) reporting that the earliest recipe traces back to

a convent in Commercy, France in the year 791 AD. The Italians however may have an even

stronger claim. When Catherine de Medici

married King Henri II of France in 1533, she brought her Italian pastry chefs

with her. It’s unclear whether the first

macaroon was made in Italy or France but Italy seems to have a stronger claim

to the cookie because its name is derived from the Italian word ‘ammaccare’

which means ‘to crush’. This is a

reference to the almond paste, which is crushed in order to make the

confection. Almonds had a long history

in Italy, having been brought to Venice by Arab invaders in the 7th Century.

Yewande Komolafe

Wherever

they came from, macaroons for Passover spread all over Europe. By the end of the 19th century,

especially here in North America, coconut replaced the almond purely because

the almond version was fragile and hard to transport. Saveur’s recipe is from a

Nigerian-American pastry chef named Yewande Komolafe. You may never have heard her name but you

have almost surely heard of Momofuku Milk Bar, Chef David Chang’s adventurous

bakery that’s up to 6 locations in the City, including the latest one that

opened last week at Madison Square Market in Madison Square Park. Pastry Chef Komolafe ‘staged’ in France and

the macaroon recipe was given to her by a French boulanger . The cookie is

intensely flavored, with a crunchy exterior and chew-y amaretto-flavored

interior. But what amazes me—the

non-baker—is Roan, Zoe and Blythe bake while

their Mom looks on.

how incredibly easy and fun they are to make. You don’t even need a mixer, using your hands

to knead all the ingredients together.

Just don’t over mix and you’ll end up with a perfect cookie. I had a whole kitchen crew make them. As you can see, siblings Blythe, Roan and Zoe

loved making macaroons and did a great job with them. Off we went to Easter lunch, armed

with our cookies. Here is the recipe:

Chewy Almond Macaroons from Saveur Magazine

and Yewande Komolafe

Makes

about 20 Macaroons.

mixture is just incorporated.

2.

Add in the liqueur and gently work it into the

paste to form a smooth dough.

Sift the powdered sugar into a mixing bowl.

4.

Using a ½

oz. metal scoop, scoop out individual portions of the dough and place each in

the bowl of powdered sugar.

5.

Coat each ball completely with powdered sugar

and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving a 1-inch space between each

macaroon. Pinch together the sides of each macaroon with your fingers and

thumb, leaving a finger-indented well in the center like a little volcano. Let

the macaroons sit out for 20 minutes to dry out. Bake until golden brown, about

10–12 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool completely. Serve

immediately, or store in an airtight container.

Note: Almond

paste is similar to marzipan but contains less sugar and no fillers. (Some

versions of almond paste do contain cream or eggs; to make this recipe vegan,

ensure that your almond paste contains no eggs or dairy.) Marzipan will not

work for this recipe.