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Рецепт Canning your own Crushed Tomato Sauce
by Monte Mathews

Every fall something primal comes over

me and I feel the need to can or ‘put up’ produce for the coming winter. This likely goes back to visions of my

paternal grandmother, a country girl from Ontario, who despite having strayed a

long way from the country, nevertheless took it upon herself to can up a storm

every September. She made all kinds of

pickles, but the one fresh vegetable that remains in my memory were her pints

of Tomato Sauce. To be honest, I never

quite figured out how she used the Tomato Sauce. We were as Anglo as you could get: even

Spaghetti sauce was a novelty in our household and in hers, un-heard-of. Perhaps Nana made tomato soup. But she certainly never attempted a gumbo or

anything remotely foreign. Fast forward

to my kitchen last weekend. I was back

in Nana country for a few hours and in my head danced visions of winter curries

and pasta sauces and cioppinos. And all

it took was a little time and some glorious tomatoes from the farm stand down

the road.

Do these look Bruised and Battered?Country Garden is loaded with

sun-ripened tomatoes gloriously arrayed row after row. But around the corner from the flawless

display of tomato perfection, is an almost forlorn area where the seconds

reside in big quart baskets. They’re not

universally red. They have blemishes

that have banished them from their $3.99 a lb flawless sisters. But under their bruises is the same sunny

tomato flavor. And if I need any further

encouragement at all, their price, $5 for about 5 lbs of tomatoes, puts me

right over the edge. Last weekend I

scooped up 3 of these baskets and went off home to can.

Photo Courtesy The New York Times Just the week before, the New York

everything together in preparation for canning. I use Mason Jars for making and keeping Salad Dressing all year round. And

once last year’s tomato recipe has been used, the Mason jar gets washed out and put

away in the pantry for the next year.

Then it’s a quick trip to buy the bands and jar lids, which are not

re-usable, for this year’s crop. I was

surprised to see that after years of being a golden color, the lids are now a

surprising silver, perhaps to match the stainless steel rage in kitchen

equipment.

Out came the giant lobster pot I use

for canning. While you can fire up a pot

full of water and sterilize last year’s jars, I followed the Times recipe

putting them all into the dishwasher and leaving them there until it was time

to fill them. Then it was on to the tomatoes

themselves. I set up a system with a

large pot of boiling water on the stove and beside that a giant ice water

bath. Scoring the

tomatoes on the

bottom, the skin slips off, the bruises often disappear and when they don’t a

paring knife makes quick work of both bruised flesh and the tough core. Prepping the tomatoes for the next step

involves halving the peeled tomato and then releasing the seeds and the jelly

around them. This the fun kind of messy

work—crushing the tomatoes with your hands, ripping off any tough or un-ripened

bits until you have a very soupy tomato puree.

Takes

about 3 hours plus 12 hours for cooling of jars.

Makes 4-5

quarts or 8 to 10 pints.

15

pounds ripe firm red tomatoes (10 to 12, depending on size)

Lemon

juice, bottled lemon juice or citric acid

Salt

(kosher, pickling or fine sea salt only), optional

1

Large Stock Pot for canning

1

rack to elevate jars off bottom of Stock Pot or

2nd

Large Pot for cooking the tomatoes

1

Large metallic bowl for ice bath

1

Large metallic bowl for peeled tomatoes.

5

– 1 Qt. Mason Jars or 10 – 1 Pint Mason Jars

1

Package of lids and liners.

Bring

a large pot of water to a boil. Cut an X in the base of each tomato. Gently

drop tomatoes into water. When they bob to the surface, remove and place in an

ice bath.

2.

Put

a rack in a large stockpot or line pot with a folded kitchen towel, then fill

it with water and bring to a boil. Add quart or pint jars and boil for 10 minutes.

Jars may be left in warm water until ready to fill. Alternatively, sterilize

jars by running them through a dishwasher cycle, keeping them warm in the

machine.

Place

canning rings in a small saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Turn off

heat and add flat lids to soften their rubber gaskets. Rings and lids may be

left in water until jars are filled.

Peel

and core tomatoes and scoop out gel and seeds. With your hands, tear and crush

tomatoes into a large nonreactive pot.

5.

After adding a few tomatoes, bring them

to a brisk boil, crushing further with a potato masher or the back of a large

spoon. (This will keep tomatoes and juice from separating in the jar.) Continue

to add crushed tomatoes, maintaining a bubbling, brisk boil. When they are all

added, boil for 5 minutes.

6.

Ladle

hot tomatoes into warm jars, leaving a little more than 1/2 inch head space to

accommodate lemon juice. If using citric acid, fill to 1/2 inch head space.

Into every quart jar, add 2 tablespoons lemon juice or 1/2 teaspoon citric

acid. For pints, use 1 tablespoon lemon juice or 1/4 teaspoon citric acid. If

using salt, add 1 teaspoon to each quart or 1/2 teaspoon to each pint.

7.

Wipe

jar rims clean with a damp towel. Place lids on jars, screw on rings and lower

jars upright into the pot of boiling water. Return to a full boil and process

for 45 minutes for quarts or 35 minutes for pints. If there are both in the

pot, process for the longer time. Transfer jars to a folded towel and cool for

12 hours. Jars will ping as they seal.

8.

Once

cool, test seals by removing rings and lifting jars by their flat lids. If a

seal has formed, lids will stay tight. Unsealed jars should be refrigerated and

used within a week or reprocessed. Jars may be reused, but a new lid and flat

liner must be used each time.