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Brunch at Enrique Olvera’s Cosme, and a Paloma with grapefruit salt air.
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Текущий рейтинг: 4.0
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.%20Both%20dishes%20were%20outstanding,%20mainly%20because%20of%20their%20sauces;%20the%20salsa%20verde%20was%20light%20and%20tart%20and%20played%20well%20against%20the%20tortilla%20chips,%20chicken%20and%20creme%20fraiche,%20while%20the%20mole%20was%20incredibly%20refined.%20I%20had%20ordered%20something%20similar%20at%20a%20restaurant%20here%20in%20Fell%E2%80%99s%20Point%20that%20was%20similar,%20but%20couldn%E2%80%99t%20hold%20a%20candle%20to%20what%20Michael%20had%20before%20him.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECosme%E2%80%99s%20duck%20enmoladas%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20drinks%20were%20also%20fantastic,%20with%20the%20Paloma%20being%20a%20particular%20favorite:%20reposado%20tequila,%20house%20made%20grapefruit%20syrup,%20seltzer%20and%20a%20little%20lime%20juice%20made%20it%20both%20refreshing%20and%20the%20perfect%20brunchtime%20drink.%20More%20on%20that%20in%20a%20bit.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECosme%E2%80%99s%20Striptease%20and%20Palomas%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOf%20course%20after%20the%20fact%20I%20started%20doing%20a%20little%20more%20reading%20on%20where%20we%20had%20eaten%20and%20realized%20that%20we%20had,%20if%20not%20randomly,%20at%20least%20a%20little%20obliviously%20had%20eaten%20at%20one%20of%20the%20most%20acclaimed%20new%20restaurants%20in%20the%20city.%20My%20head%20had%20been%20swimming%20from%20all%20of%20the%20places%20I%20had%20earmarked%20so%20specific%20details%20about%20each%20one%20were%20minimal%20at%20best.%20(Cosme%20had%20been%20associated%20with%20%E2%80%9Cgood%20brunch%E2%80%9D%20and%20that%E2%80%99s%20about%20it.)%20When%20we%20entered%20the%20restaurant%20I%20noticed%20all%20of%20the%20cool%20cookbooks%20they%20were%20using%20as%20decoration%20on%20the%20open%20shelving,%20and%20my%20eye%20was%20drawn%20to%20Mexico%20From%20The%20Inside%20Out,%20a%20title%20I%E2%80%99ve%20had%20my%20eye%20on%20but%20had%20yet%20to%20pull%20the%20trigger%20on%20getting.%20It%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20until%20I%20was%20doing%20my%20post-brunch%20reading%20that%20I%20realized%20we%20were%20in%20the%20author%E2%80%99s%20first%20New%20York%20restaurant%20and%20that%20oh%20yeah,%20his%20Mexico%20City%20place%20is%20ranked%2020th%20on%20San%20Pellegrino%E2%80%99s%2050%20Best%20Restaurants%20in%20the%20World.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhoops.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EScallop%20Aguachile%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESuffice%20it%20to%20say%20that%20by%20the%20weekend%20after%20our%20trip,%20I%20had%20put%20together%20a%20menu%20for%20Saturday%20night%20from%20a%20cobbled-together%20selection%20of%20Enrique%20Olvera%20recipes%20found%20online%20as%20well%20as%20figured%20out%20how%20to%20at%20least%20attempt%20to%20replicate%20the%20Palomas%20we%20enjoyed.%20The%20Chicharr%C3%B3n%20Tacos%20in%20Salsa%20Verde%20were%20good%20(the%20salsa%20was%20just%20like%20what%20I%20had%20enjoyed%20at%20brunch)%20and%20the%20tortillas%20were%20surprisingly%20easy%20to%20make%20from%20scratch.%20The%20Scallop%20Aguachile%20was%20a%20lot%20of%20work%E2%80%93so%20many%20ingredients%20cut%20into%20brunoise!%E2%80%93but%20totally%20worth%20it%20even%20if%20I%20might%20cut%20down%20on%20the%20amount%20of%20serrano%20when%20I%20make%20it%20again.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESalsa%20Verde%20Chicharr%C3%B3n%20Tacos%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20ended%20up%20doing%20a%20little%20bit%20of%20a%20riff%20on%20Olvera%E2%80%99s%20Paloma;%20given%20that%20neither%20Michael%20nor%20I%20are%20big%20on%20salt-rimmed%20glasses%20at%20home,%20instead%20of%20making%20a%20grapefruit%20salt%20I%20instead%20did%20a%20grapefruit-based%20salt%20air%20using%20the%20leftover%20grapefruit%20I%20had%20from%20making%20the%20syrup.%20It%E2%80%99s%20a%20technique%20I%20learned%20from%20Jos%C3%A9%20Andr%C3%A9s%20as%20he%20does%20something%20similar%20for%20margaritas%20that%20are%20also%20very,%20very%20good.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIf%20February%20is%20getting%20you%20down%20and%20you%E2%80%99re%20thinking%20of%20warmer%20climates,%20give%20this%20drink%20a%20try%E2%80%93it%E2%80%99s%20light%20and%20bright%20and%20will%20at%20least%20help%20you%20pretend%20you%E2%80%99re%20on%20a%20warm%20beach%20or%20sitting%20by%20a%20pool%20for%20a%20little%20while.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPaloma%20with%20Grapefruit%20Salt%20Air%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eadapted%20from%20Enrique%20Olvera%E2%80%99s%20Cosme%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMakes%20one%20cocktail%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E2%20oz%20reposado%20tequila%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E1%201/2%20ounces%20grapefruit%20syrup%20(this%20recipe%20is%20a%20good%20one!)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EJuice%20of%201/2%20lime%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIce%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESoda%20or%20sparkling%20water%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EGrapefruit%20salt%20air%20(recipe%20below)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIn%20a%20cocktail%20shaker%20combine%20all%20ingredients%20save%20for%20the%20sparkling%20water%20and%20grapefruit%20salt%20air%20and%20shake%20until%20the%20shaker%20is%20cold.%20Strain%20into%20an%20old%20fashioned%20glass,%20top%20with%20a%20couple%20of%20ounces%20of%20soda%20water,%20and%20then%20top%20with%20some%20grapefruit%20salt%20air.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EGrapefruit%20salt%20air%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdapted%20from%20Jos%C3%A9%20Andr%C3%A9s%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMakes%20enough%20f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