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4.19.15: appetizer. (Mimi Thorisson’s almond mussels.)
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Текущий рейтинг: 4.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAlmond%20Mussels%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIt%20was%20a%20couple%20of%20weekends%20ago%20now%20on%20one%20of%20the%20few%20lazy%20Sundays%20we%E2%80%99ve%20had%20in%20a%20while%20and%20I%20was%20completely%20lacking%20any%20inspiration%20on%20what%20to%20make%20for%20dinner%20that%20night.%20I%20knew%20we%20were%20going%20to%20have%20steak%20because%20Michael%20had%20been%20letting%20one%20dry%20out%20for%20a%20day%20or%20so%20in%20the%20fridge%20(not%20so%20much%20dry-aging%20but%20just%20letting%20some%20of%20the%20moisture%20of%20the%20steak%20soak%20into%20a%20paper%20towel%E2%80%93it%20does%20make%20for%20a%20really%20good%20at-home%20slab%20of%20beef)%20and%20so%20really%20I%20needed%20to%20think%20of%20what%20could%20go%20well%20with%20that.%20Neither%20pasta%20nor%20bread/toast%20felt%20right%20for%20that%20night,%20so%20I%20started%20flipping%20through%20A%20Kitchen%20in%20France%20and%20immediately%20landed%20on%20Mimi%20Thorisson%E2%80%99s%20almond%20mussels.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMussels%20are%20awesome%20and%20sustainable%E2%80%93I%E2%80%99ve%20certainly%20written%20about%20them%20here%20at%20length%20before%E2%80%93but%20I%E2%80%99ve%20usually%20stuck%20to%20the%20very%20basic%20and%20very%20easy%20method%20of%20cooking%20them%20with%20a%20few%20aromatics,%20some%20wine%20or%20beer,%20and%20then%20letting%20the%20heat%20and%20the%20pot%20do%20most%20of%20the%20work.%20You%20also%20get%20far%20more%20of%20them%20per%20pound%20than%20you%20do%20of%20other%20shellfish,%20so%20usually%20by%20the%20time%20I%E2%80%99ve%20sorted%20through%20and%20debearded%20them%20all%20the%20thought%20of%20doing%20much%20else%20has%20zero%20appeal%20for%20me.%20The%20use%20of%20the%20almond%20flour%20here%20caught%20my%20interest,%20though,%20and%20I%20figured%20it%20was%20worth%20giving%20it%20a%20shot%20even%20if%20it%20meant%20having%20to%20break%20apart%20two%20pounds%20of%20rather%20hot%20mussels%20and%20deposit%20them%20on%20a%20baking%20sheet.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETruthfully,%20that%20was%20somewhat%20of%20a%20pain%20to%20do,%20and%20only%20because%20of%20the%20sheer%20quantity%20of%20mussels%20that%20you%E2%80%99re%20dealing%20with%20here.%20(No%20wonder%20it%E2%80%99s%20more%20common%20to%20see%20baked%20clams%20or%20oysters%20rather%20than%20mussels.)%20But%20the%20topping%20mixture%20was%20very%20simple%20to%20bring%20together,%20and%20even%20topping%20each%20one%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20much%20of%20an%20ordeal%20because%20the%20sheet%20pan%20was%20so%20crowded%20with%20them%20that%20a%20little%20overlap%20of%20filling%20was%20more%20than%20OK%E2%80%93everything%20looked%20great%20on%20the%20platter%20afterward%20anyway.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMost%20importantly,%20though,%20these%20mussels%20were%20incredible%20thanks%20to%20the%20crust%20of%20almond%20flour%20and%20breadcrumbs%20and%20the%20finely%20minced%20garlic%20that%20perfumed%20every%20bite.%20We%20destroyed%20the%20entire%20pan%20with%20gusto,%20only%20pausing%20to%20work%20on%20the%20rest%20of%20dinner%20and%20maybe%20take%20a%20sip%20or%20two%20of%20wine%20here%20and%20there.%20Mimi%20writes%20that%20she%20likes%20to%20have%20these%20out%20for%20dinner%20guests%20as%20an%20appetizer%20so%20they%20can%20munch%20on%20them%20while%20she%E2%80%99s%20getting%20the%20rest%20of%20dinner%20together,%20and%20as%20such%20her%20recipe%20is%20double%20what%20I%E2%80%99m%20going%20to%20share%20here.%20Trust%20me%20when%20I%20say%20that%20if%20you%E2%80%99re%20going%20to%20have%20more%20than%20a%20couple%20of%20people%20over%20and%20they%20like%20mussels,%20you%E2%80%99re%20going%20to%20have%20to%20double%20this%20to%20make%20sure%20everyone%20can%20eat%20their%20fill.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAlmond%20Mussels%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eslightly%20adapted%20from%20A%20Kitchen%20in%20France%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eserves%202%20to%203%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMake%20the%20topping:%20in%20a%20bowl%20combine%20the%20breadcrumbs,%20almond%20flour,%20garlic,%20parsley,%20and%20season%20to%20taste%20with%20salt%20and%20pepper.%20The%20result%20should%20be%20a%20paste-like%20consistency.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPreheat%20the%20oven%20to%20425.%20Place%20all%20of%20your%20mussels%20into%20a%20large%20pot%20that%20can%20hold%20all%20of%20them%20and%20place%20over%20high%20heat,%20covered.%20(I%20find%20that%20adding%20a%20little%20water%20in%20the%20bottom%20helps%20with%20the%20opening%20process.)%20Cook%20until%20they%20just%20begin%20to%20open,%20and%20then%20take%20them%20off%20the%20heat,%20uncover%20them,%20and%20let%20them%20cool%20a%20little%20bit.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBreak%20off%20one%20side%20of%20each%20shell%20and%20place%20the%20mussels%20in%20a%20half-sheet%20pan%20lined%20with%20aluminum%20foil.%20(Two%20pounds%20of%20mussels%20will%20take%20up%20most%20of%20the%20pan.)%20Cover%20each%20with%20the%20topping%E2%80%93about%20a%20half%20teaspoon,%20but%20adjust%20accordingly%20depending%20on%20your%20mussels.%20Bake%20for%20about%206%20minutes%20in%20the%20oven%20until%20the%20crust%20is%20crisp%20and%20serve%20immediately%20with%20a%20dry%20white%20or%20ros%C3%A9.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}