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03.24.13: tapas (pollo con ajo, ajo blanco de malagueño, y rossejat de gambetes i aiolli)
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Elizabeth Schreiter
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAjo%20blanco%20de%20malague%C3%B1o%20(or,%20white%20gazpacho)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EYes,%20that%E2%80%99s%20a%20whole%20mess%20of%20Spanish%20and%20Catal%C3%A0%20up%20there%20in%20the%20post%20title.%20%20No,%20I%20make%20no%20apologies.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20meal%20was%20a%20bit%20ambitious%20for%20us,%20even%20for%20a%20Sunday%20night:%20in%20the%20mood%20for%20some%20delicious%20Jos%C3%A9%20Andr%C3%A9s-style%20tapas%20after%20hearing%20about%20Michael%E2%80%99s%20visit%20to%20Zaytinya%20during%20his%20recent%20trip%20to%20DC.%20Picking%20four%20dishes%20(the%20three%20listed%20here,%20along%20with%20a%20variation%20of%20this%20salad),%20I%20made%20a%20plan%20to%20get%20some%20of%20the%20work%20done%20early%20in%20the%20afternoon,%20after%20my%20workout%20but%20before%20I%20went%20down%20the%20street%20to%20see%20the%20Chilean%20movie%20No%20at%20the%20local%20non-profit%20movie%20theater.%20I%20really%20thought%20that%20I%20had%20it%20all%20in%20hand:%20I%20made%20the%20sofrito%20for%20the%20rossejat%20after%20we%20got%20back%20from%20the%20store,%20and%20everything%20else%20was%20pretty%20much%20self-explanatory.%20Or%20so%20I%20thought.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPollo%20de%20ajo%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhat%20almost,%20almost%20threw%20my%20whole%20plan%20into%20disarray%20was%20the%20white%20gazpacho,%20or%20blanco%20ajo.%20Here%E2%80%99s%20the%20thing:%20you%20make%20it%20by%20boiling%20your%20blanched%20almonds%20and%20cloves%20of%20garlic%20twice,%20then%20blend%20it%20with%20bread%20and%20water%20and%20sherry%20vinegar%20and%20a%20little%20salt%20and%20olive%20oil%20until%20it%E2%80%99s%20nice%20and%20smooth.%20That%20mixture%20needs%20to%20then%20sit%20in%20cheesecloth%20and%20drip,%20drip,%20drip%E2%80%93this%20is%20great%20if%20you%20have%20all%20day%20to%20do%20so,%20but%20it%20requires%20a%20lot%20of%20tending%20in%20addition%20to%20a%20good%2030%20minutes%20to%20let%20the%20strained%20product%20chill%20in%20the%20refrigerator.%20I%20ended%20up%20adding%20a%20little%20more%20water%20to%20the%20mixture%20to%20help%20things%20along,%20and%20Michael%20assisted%20in%20scraping%20the%20mesh%20strainer%20to%20clear%20out%20the%20spent%20bits%20while%20working%20on%20the%20pollo%20de%20ajo.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThat%20garlic%20chicken,%20by%20the%20way,%20was%20sublime%20and%20delicious.%20It%E2%80%99s%20simply%20a%20lot%20of%20garlic,%20a%20little%20herbs,%20some%20salt%20and%20some%20chicken.%20Not%20much%20to%20dislike%20there!%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERossejat%20de%20gambeta%20i%20allioli%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFollowing%20the%20first%20two%20courses,%20I%20went%20to%20the%20serious%20work%20of%20making%20the%20rossejat.%20Normally,%20this%20would%20be%20made%20in%20a%20paella,%20but%20because%20I%20wanted%20leftovers%20for%20the%20week%20I%20used%20a%20skillet%20to%20make%20it.%20(Note:%20to%20make%20this%20right,%20you%E2%80%99ll%20need%20a%20pan%20you%20can%20fit%20into%20a%20broiler%20if%20your%20broiler%20is%20separate%20from%20%20your%20regular%20oven.)%20This%20was%20the%20first%20time%20I%E2%80%99ve%20used%20capellini%20instead%20of%20egg%20noodles%20to%20make%20a%20Catalan%20pasta%20dish,%20and%20I%20think%20for%20this%20particular%20dish,%20the%20former%20works%20better%20than%20the%20latter.%20The%20pieces%20of%20pasta%20need%20to%20be%20really%20small%20in%20order%20for%20you%20to%20move%20them%20with%20any%20sort%20of%20finesse%20in%20the%20pan%20as%20they%20toast,%20and%20then%20it%20makes%20it%20easier%20to%20incorporate%20the%20garlic%20and%20the%20sofrito%20later%20on,%20right%20before%20you%20add%20the%20hot%20stock%20to%20help%20everything%20cook.%20As%20someone%20who%20saves%20every%20shrimp%20shell%20I%20tear%20off,%20I%20had%20plenty%20to%20use%20when%20I%20made%20the%20stock%20for%20this%E2%80%93just%20boiled%20shells%20that%20are%20skimmed%20out%20and%20then%20simmered%20with%20bay%20leaf,%20a%20peeled%20shallot,%20and%20some%20garlic%20and%20a%20little%20salt.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOnce%20the%20components%20come%20together,%20there%E2%80%99s%20not%20much%20else%20to%20do%20with%20this%20but%20let%20the%20stock%20absorb%20and%20then%20send%20the%20whole%20pan%20into%20the%20broiler%20to%20finish,%20and%20in%20the%20meantime%20you%20can%20get%20everything%20ready%20to%20make%20some%20allioli.%20We%20had%20amazing,%20homemade%20ailloli%20when%20we%20were%20in%20Caldetes,%20and%20it%20was%20honestly%20one%20of%20the%20most%20significant%20foods%20I%20ever%20ate,%20because%20it%20made%20me%20appreciate%20a%20food%20I%20had%20long%20avoided%20as%20being%20bland,%20flavorless%20,and%20therefore%20a%20unnecessarily%20fatty%20addition%20to%20any%20dish.%20Thanks%20to%20the%20addition%20of%20garlic%20this%20was%20light%20and%20savory%20and%20thick,%20thicker%20than%20any%20homemade%20mayo%20I%E2%80%99ve%20ever%20made.%20But%20Chef%20Andr%C3%A9s%20had%20a%20recipe%20that%20used%20an%20immersion%20blender,%20and%20I%20told%20Michael%20it%20was%20at%20least%20worth%20an%20attempt%20to%20make.%20Spooning%20some%20dollops%20of%20the%20stuff%20into%20this%20dish%20elevates%20it%20from%20%E2%80%9Cokay,%20it%E2%80%99s%20pretty%20good%E2%80%9D%20to%20%E2%80%9COMFG%20MUST%20EAT%20ALL%20OF%20IT%E2%80%9D%20status.%20How%20do%20I%20know?%20Michael%20himself%20went%20back%20for%20a%20second%20portion,%20and%20was%20happy%20to%20help%20me%20with%20my%20puny%20second%20portion%20afterwards.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20picture%20above%20indicates%20that%20the%20attempt%20was%20a%20success.%20Was%20it%20as%20thick%20as%20the%20stuff%20we%20had%20in%20that%20little%20restaurant%20in%20Caldetes?%20No,%20but%20it%20was%20close.%20I%E2%80%99ll%20take%20close.%20I%20also%20had%20enough%20delicious%20pasta%20to%20last%20me%20through%20the%20week%20for%20lunch.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDespite%20of%20all%20of%20this%20kitchen%20activity,%20we%20started%20having%20food%20at%206:30%20and%20finished%20by%208.%20Not%20too%20bad,%20if%20I%20say%20so%20myself.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAjo%20Blanco%20de%20Malague%C3%B1o%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eadapted%20from%20Tapas:%20A%20Taste%20of%20Spain%20in%20America%20by%20Jos%C3%A9%20Andr%C3%A9s%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETake%20a%20cup%20of%20the%20filtered%20water,%20and%20in%20a%20sauce%20pan%20add%20it,%20the%20almonds%20and%20garlic%20and%20bring%20to%20a%20boil.%20Drain,%20and%20then%20add%20another%20cup%20of%20water%20and%20boil%20the%20almonds%20and%20garlic%20again,%20also%20draining.%20At%20this%20point%20the%20garlic%20should%20be%20softened%20and%20mild%20and%20the%20almond%20should%20also%20be%20soft.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIn%20a%20blender,%20add%20the%20bread,%20sherry%20vinegar,%20the%20remaining,%20water,%20and%20salt.%20Blend%20well%20until%20smooth,%20and%20then%20place%20into%20a%20fine-mesh%20sieve%20to%20begin%20draining.%20If%20seeing%20little%20movement%20return%20mixture%20to%20the%20blender%20carafe%20and%20add%20a%20few%20more%20splashes%20of%20water%20and%20blend%20again.%20Working%20in%20batches,%20add%20the%20mixture%20to%20the%20strainer%20and%20gently%20mix%20to%20move%20the%20spent%20bits%20away%20from%20the%20liquid.%20When%20all%20liquid%20has%20been%20extracted,%20discard%20solids%20and%20let%20the%20strained%20liquid%20chill%20for%20at%20least%2030%20minutes.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPour%20gently%20into%20bowls,%20and%20add%20grapes%20and%20drizzle%20good%20olive%20oil%20as%20desired.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}